Etiquette 101

Most of our customers specialize in providing a quality stay to their guests. Part of that quality component is maintaining the appearance of their hotel assets and that’s where Renue Systems comes into the picture. In remembering etiquette, it is important to include the guest. The customer’s guest is our customer too! Keeping this in mind will also help you maintain another level of professionalism on the property.

A check list of information needed prior to entering the hotel the first time may include:

✓ Where to park the vehicle.

✓ Which entry to use to bring the equipment into the building.

✓ Who to see upon entering – your contact person? You might get an alternate in case that person is off on the day of service. It is also great advice to call a few days prior to the appointment to be sure everything is still on schedule.

✓ Ask where your team is to take breaks and eat lunch on the property.

✓ Use only the employee washrooms when on the property.

✓ Speak softly when working in public areas of the hotel. Do not use foul language at any time while on the property.

✓ If given a master key, guard it with your life! Return it before leaving the property.

✓ On full-service hotels, check in with security before commencing work.

✓ If you smoke, smoke outside in a designated smoking area.

✓ Workers should not wear any electronic device on their head or music headset while working. This looks unprofessional and also prevents them from hearing hotel guests or hotel employees.

✓ Never say no to a customer! Your team members should call their immediate supervisor for assistance on any question or request they don’t know how to answer

✓ Do not empty any wastewater outside in a storm drain, bathtub or slop sink. Only empty waste water in toilets or other specified areas

Once you are on property a checklist of information needed from your contact person includes:

✓ The location of the hot water sources and waste drains that you are to use. You may also ask for a vacant room closest to the area you are working. Please leave the room in better condition than you found it.

✓ Inquire about the electrical outlets and ask them to identify some in the area where you’ll be working on different circuits so you don’t blow fuses. To self test this take the two extension cords and plug both the power plug and the heat plug of one machine into both outlets and see if the green light on the control unit comes on when you plug into the second outlet.  If it does, you are on different circuits, if not, it is the same circuit.

✓ Find out if management will permit you to leave guest room doors open to enhance air circulation and drying. Some won’t out of concern about theft of items from the rooms (like TVs).

✓ Clarify property procedures for cleaning any occupied rooms: Have guests been notified? Does management require staff or security attendance? Never, under any circumstance, walk away from an occupied room with the door open. Not even just for a moment for the fear that someone may enter the room and steal something or the guest may return and feel their security somewhat violated with the room being left open and unattended.

Always remember:

➢ Employees should be neatly groomed and wearing uniforms. Wristwatch and wedding rings are the only jewelry approved as part of the mandatory Renue Systems uniform. Any necklaces should be worn inside of garment. The Renue Systems uniform is composed of a colored shirt (currently black or dark blue) with our logo, khaki pants and an optional Renue Systems-logo hat.

➢ Never use anything in the guest rooms – it is for the guest (i.e., toilet, towels, garbage cans, televisions, radios, servi-bar, toiletries etc.). Our customers are VERY particular about their room’s appearance and smell. Leave it as you found it or in better condition.

➢ Keep your equipment in the immediate area where you are working. Line up the equipment, hoses, and electrical cords along one side of the hallway, so staff and guests can easily pass on the other side of the hall.

➢ If and when you take a break, please place your equipment in a vacant room or on one side of the guest corridor.

➢ Use wet floor signs around your work area and where the carpet meets the tile to avoid a slip and fall accident.

➢ Be friendly and courteous to guests and employees, some of who may visit to observe your

work. You never know who that person may be.

➢ When the job is finished, clean up the area, check for any bottles, equipment, work lists, or anything your crew might have left behind. Unobtrusively move the equipment back to the loading area. Notify the desk and housekeeping that you are leaving the premises.

➢ Importantly, our customer is in the customer service business, so we need to be of that mindset as well. Thus, several times per day both you and your crew should check in with your contact to show him/her the progress and ensure he/she is pleased with your work.

Fiber Identification and Carpet Construction

Know how to I.D. your fibers. This will keep you from making costly mistakes when cleaning something you’re not sure and it will show your customer your level of expertise. This chart will help you in the identification of all the different fibers out there. Almost all of your guestroom carpeting will be a synthetic fiber like nylon or polyester.

In your full-service hotels, you will find the public areas like the ballrooms and hallways are almost always wool. Below we will cover the special procedure for cleaning wool carpeting.

  • Chemistry : All of your chemicals have dilution ratios and instructions printed on them. Follow these instructions carefully and use a measuring cup when mixing chemicals. Do not guess at the amount by pouring in open bottles directly into the machine or sprayer.
  • Safety : Again, read all the instructions on the label and take all precautions stated on the label. Properly dispose of any unused chemicals. Keep your SDS sheets with you for all chemicals in your van.
  • Carpet Cleaning Methodologies : Hot Water Extraction (steam extraction) – HWE: Is the method by which hot water is injected into the carpet fibers and is then vacuumed out using either a portable or truck mounted units. It is a restorative cleaning solution, the most preferred method of cleaning carpets by most carpet manufacturers and dry times vary from 2-6 hours depending on conditions.
    Low Moisture Cleaning – LMC: This can be accomplished using a few different methods listed Below.
  1. Bonnet Cleaning: Very common interim cleaning process used by in-house staff at hotels. The system uses a chemical spray, a 175-rpm rotary scrubber and a bonnet pad. The process removes soil from the very top of the carpet fibers and usually dries within an hour.
  1. Host Cleaning: A systems that uses a cleaning agent similar in looks to saw dust chips that are soaked in water, detergents and wetting agents and then scrubbed into the carpet and then vacuumed off. The process is an interim cleaning solution and the carpet is often dry to the touch within minutes.
  1. Encapsulation: A chemical compound that is spayed on the carpet fibers and agitated into the carpet fibers using a cylindrical brush machine. The chemical then forms a crystal-like substance around the soil, detaching the static bond between the soil and the carpet fiber. Once it dries (usually in about 45 minutes to an hour), the crystals then wick to the top of the carpet fibersthrough a capillary action and then are vacuumed off the carpeting. This is our preferred method of LMC.

*Note: For Hawaii we typically use HWE on VERY low PSI for low moisture cleaning. The advantage here is we clean 100% of the carpet, not just the top 5% and we don’t damage the carpet fibers which is common with the above low cleaning methods. Aim for a 45min to an hour dry time when considering the PSI to use. Start low if you’re not sure.

Extractors Maintenance and Repair

Portable extractors:

Your machines are portable extractors with dual vacuums for maximum water recovery and a solution pump capable of 500-1200 psi. Some of these extractors have heat as well. They have a solutiontank upfront and a dirty water recovery tank in the back. We find portable equipment to be a competitive advantage for us for multiple reasons. Our team can mobilize to any floor no matter how tall the building may be. Truck mounted units only have so much hose length and loose vacuum suction the longer their hose is deployed. Our crews can unobtrusively work in any area of the hotel because with portable equipment, we don’t need to run those long hoses from a van down hallways or hanging outside from windows. If your portable extractor breaks down most repairs can be done on sight whereas with a truck mount, if the trucks engine has a problem you are shut down and repairs on cleaning equipment usually require that van be dropped off to a repair shop and that can take days. Portable equipment is a fraction of the price compared to a truck mount. Portable equipment of this size requires two 110 volt plugs to operate (internationally the voltage may differ). Make sure to plug into separate outlets and on different circuit breakers when operating the machine. All units come with 25 feet of solution and vacuum hose and a stainless carpet wand.

Below are some helpful bullet points regarding your machines and proper operation:

  • Always use hot water in the solution tank.
  • Empty the solution tank when you have completed your work for the day. That cold water is of no use to us the next day and the machine is easier to load onto to the truck empty.
  • Rinse out the recovery tank every night. Clean it thoroughly once per week. Leave the recovery tank lid off when storing the unit. If you don’t do these things bacteria will grow in that tank causing some very foul odors to come from your machine.
  • When transporting the machine empty across flooring, tip the unit back on its rear caster wheels.
  • Empty the recovery tank each time you fill up.
  • Use knock out defoamer if you see foam building up in the tank. This can be caused by prior

cleaning on the carpeting where the chemical was not flushed out properly or an over use of chemical by an in-house staff.

For Preventative Maintenance here are our recommended tips:

  • Clean the exterior of your machine and wands on a regular basis. These machines are part of your image and dirty machines give your customers the impression that you are not a detailed organization.
  • Clean the recovery tank on a regular basis.
  • Store the units with the recovery lid off each night.
  • Run white vinegar through the pump one a month. Take a short solution hose (priming hose) and recirculate the vinegar through the pump and back into the solution tank for about 5 minutes. This will help to reduce limescale build up in your pump and hoses.
  • Once per month spray a little WD-40 down the vacuum tube in the solution with the vacuums running. This will reduce rust from building up on the vacuums.
  • Rebuild your pump with a rebuild kit whenever the pump starts to lose pressure.
  • Repairs

Pump Tec rebuild directions:

All pump tech pump rebuild instructions and videos can be found on the web at:

  • Open the unit from time to time and check for leaks. Any loose hose fittings should be tightened.
  • Clean the overflow trap with the white ball in it once per week. Carpet fibers can get trapped in there causing the ball not to lift when the recovery tank gets too full.
  • Clean the recovery tanks of the machines on a daily basis.
  • Remove lid on recovery tank ea. night before storing.
  • Spray WD-40 into vacuum port once a month. Two seconds of spray is all that is needed.
  • Remove pump head every four month to grease bearing seated in pump. Use a white lithium grease like Super Lube.
  • Clean the exterior of the machine weekly for appearances.
  • Check vacuum hose to tears and replace if necessary.
  • Check solution hose for bubbles by handle and replace if necessary.
  • Check male fittings to see if the brass is burred and replace if necessary.
  • Clean the screens behind the T-Jets in your carpet wands monthly.
  • Clean your carpet wands with a metal polish weekly.
  • Tighten any loose screws throughout the machine.
  • Remove handle assembly from dump valve and clean out any debris.
  • Check to make sure pressure gauge is functioning property.
  • Lube your pressure regulator every four months or so.
  • Check the wheels on the unit to make sure the hubs are intact. Lube zerk fitting.
  • Replace internal vacuum hoses when they become hard and no longer flexible.
  • Replace internal water lines when yellowed and no longer flexible.
  • If you have an internal in-line filter, disassemble and clean every 3-4 months and replace every 12 months or so.
  • If you have a filter inside your clean water tank inlet, remove and clean on a monthly basis.
  • Check your plug ends and replace if the prongs are loose or ground is missing.

Van Contents

Your van is your mobile warehouse and should contain everything you could possibly need on any given project. Have it with you or you will be traveling back and forth to your warehouse wasting precious time and money.

Here is a list of the four items that you should have on the truck at all times.

  1.  All equipment: Extractors, small spotting machine, blowers, wands, upholstery tools, sprayers, tool kits, buckets, moisture meters, demonstration cups, tile and grout equipment, cylindrical brush machine, hand vacuum, repair parts, furniture blocks and tabs, faucet adaptor and hose, marketing material, business cards, measuring stick, SDS sheets, extension cords, wet floor signs, etc.
  1.  Your van is part of your image. Have it properly logo’ d and the exterior clean. Remember, you’re a cleaning company and your customers have expectations of what a cleaning company should look like.
  1. Keep your stuff organized and placed into containers and shelves in the van. If you’re organized you can quickly find items when needed or see when you are missing something. Also, by keeping your equipment secure in the truck, it will lead to fewer repairs as things won’t get broken in transport.
  1. Chemical; bucket of greasolv, 2 gallons of Neutral Renue, 2-4 gallons of Lemon and Rinse, 1 gallon of Knockdown, 1 gallon of Floorshizzle, 1 gallon of BG3, 1 gallon of Viper Renew, 2 quarts of Top Gum, 2 quarts of Spot-Out, 2 gallons of Concrobium or Microban, Stain Magic and Stain Magic for wool, Proxi Clean Spray and Walk Away, Red One, 1 gallon of Fiber Guard, 1 gallon of Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral, 1 gallon of Odor X Un-Duz-It, 1 container of Saiger’s Sauce Code Red, 1 container of Oxy Plus, dye kit and burn kit.

Note: When re-stocking the van before and mark down what you take from the warehouse in our inventory app “Sortly”. If you do not have access please reach out for access. It is crucial to keep the inventory in the warehouse accurate so we know when to re-order chemicals and supplies.

Carpet Cleaning 101

Synthetic Carpeting


  • Extractor(s)
  • Extension cords
  • Floor wand
  • Vacuum hose
  • Solution hose
  • Pump sprayers
  • Air movers
  • Wet floor signs
  • Empty bucket
  • Faucet adaptor
  • Clean rags
  • Recommended: eye protection (when mixing chemicals), optional gloves


  • Renue Greasolv
  • Renue Neutral Renue
  • Saiger’s Sauce Code Red
  • Oxy Plus Booster
  • Knockdown Defoamer
  • Renue Lemon – deodorizer
  • Renue Rinse – textile rinse
  • Fiber Guard, if requested
  • T.O.P. Gum spot remover
  • Spotting agents (you should have all spotting agents in your vehicle at all times as one never knows what type of stains could be lurking.


Procedure for Guestroom Carpet Cleaning

  1.  Knock on the door and identify yourself by saying “maintenance.” You want to make sure you don’t walk into an occupied room and startle a guest. Get a list of occupancy from hotel management before proceeding.
  1.  Prop open the room doors with doorstops or towels. (Do not wedge towels at the top of the doors engineers do not like that)
  1. Prepare the rooms by turning on lights, moving/pick up chairs, wastebaskets, luggage holders and other small moveable objects.
  1.  Turn the air conditioner on high cool or heat in the winter (always turn back to the way you found it our the way the hotel has specified that they want it after)
  1. Prepare the solution tank of the extractor: 12-gallon hot water, then 4-ounce deodorizer, 10 oz Rinse. More rinse and deodorizer may be necessary if you are cleaning public space wool Carpeting.
  1.  Prepare the hand-pump with Greasolv solution, 2 to 2 1/2 scoops per 1/1/2 gallon for average soil, use boosting agent for heavy soil. Fill sprayer with water first, and then add the Greasolv so the sprayer will not clog. Mix only what you need. E.g., if you only have 2 rooms left; don’t fill your sprayer or machine tank as this mixture is no good the next day.
  1. Pre-spray the room carpet before bringing in the extractor and hoses. Pre-spray should be applied

*5 minutes or so before extraction; it should not be allowed to dry on the carpet surface. Only spray at most 2 rooms before cleaning. Pay careful attention not to get overspray on the wall baseboard or furniture.

  1. Apply pre-spray heavily in high traffic areas, such as in front of the sofa, the bathroom door and entry.
  1. Extract and rinse the carpet, using about 300-400 psi (Lower in general for Hawaii – please consult technicians) – The higher psi affects dry time.
  2. Using continuous spray, begin with the narrow spaces, then the open floor spaces, working from the back of the room towards the door. Wand strokes should be 1 1⁄2’ to 2’ long in a ‘v’ motion, overlapping sideways about 1/3 of the wand width on average soil, closer in heavy soil. Each subsequent row of strokes should overlap about 3”. In very heavy soil use multiple short strokes and additional vacuum strokes (no spray). As you come across them, stop to remove gum, wax, ink stains, paint, etc. Note any stains that do not come out to cover with management later.
  3. Remember to do the closet and behind all doors.
  4. Replace furniture, wastebaskets etc. as cleaning your way out of the room, turn off all lights, leaving the room rent-ready. Note: any items placed on wet carpet should have plastic/rubber feet. Do not place wood or metal on wet carpet.
  5. Optionally, set up an air mover in the doorway threshold for about 15 minutes or so to hasten drying. A turbo fan will dry a room in about 2 hours or less under average weather conditions. Just a few minutes at each doorway entrance can significantly reduce dry times. Without the fan, dry time is estimated at 4 to 6 hours, but varies with humidity levels and air circulation.

Wool Carpeting


  1.  Do not use high alkaline pre-spray like Greasolv. It will damage the wool fibers with long term exposure. The high alkaline of this product can cause the dyes to become unstable and bleed into one another. Wool carpet should be cleaned using wool safe cleaners, low alkaline cleaners (8.0 pH or less) or acid-based cleaning detergents. We recommend Neutral Renue, Ecogent by Chemspec or in some more extreme cases Saiger’s Sauce Code Red. To boost the effectiveness of these products, add Oxy Plus Booster (oxygenated cleaner). You should always test a section of the carpet first to ensure that no damage will be caused by your chemical selection. Never apply TOP GUM directly to the carpet using a sprayer. Always put a small amount of TOP GUM onto a white towel and apply using a blotting technique.
  1. Do not clean a carpet unless it is lying atop an impervious surface that won’t be stained or damaged by moisture or by brown color leaching from the carpet’s jute backing.
  1.  For Axminister/Britons carpet; use Ecogent by Chemspec or similar chemistry as it is those products will not void the warranty.
  1. Wool carpeting smells like a wet dog when cleaned. You can minimize the odor by post spraying a deodorizer like Lemon Renue or Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral.
  1.  Increase the amount of pH rinse in your solution tank if using an alkaline cleaning agent to counter any alkaline detergents left in the carpet fibers.
  1.  Do NOT use Proxi Clean or similar chemical on wool carpet.

Soil Release Pre-Spray Formula for standard wool carpet:

  • Neutral Renue (our product for most wool and Light Color carpets, drapes, upholstery & panels) or other Renue approved substitute 10 ounces
  • Hot Water (tap water) 1.5 gallons

*If soiling conditions are bad use Oxy Plus Booster or replace Neutral with light dilution of Saiger’s Sauce Code Red with Oxy Plus Booster. If not leave this step out.

  • Mix solution well.
  • Test the solution on an inconspicuous area of the carpet, checking for color-fastness or any other adverse effects; proceed if everything looks OK.
  • Pre-spray carpet with solution
  • Dwell time 5 to 10 minutes
  • Agitate heavily soiled areas using cylindrical brush machine. Never use a rotary brush machine as this action may change the memory of the carpet fibers.
  • Extract with hot water from tap; this is not hot enough to cause shrinking or other damage to the wool fibers.
  • Vacuum as dry as possible
  • Set air movers on it for as long as possible

Key to wool handling: Wool fibers are Hydrophilic. Don’t get it any wetter than necessary and extract water as much as possible to expedite dry times. Wool fibers trap moisture and release it slowly by wicking it to the surface, where it evaporates.


Use as many air movers as possible and take slow and deliberate dry strokes when vacuuming the carpet with your dry strokes during the extraction process.


Wool carpeting is hydrophilic and is slow to release moisture. Dry times can vary but if properly cleaned following the above instructions, carpet will dry in the usual window of 2-6 hours depending on conditions.

Draperies and Sheers Cleaning 101


  • Extractor
  • Extension cord
  • Upholstery wand
  • Drapery tool/Upholstery wand
  • Spray gun attachment
  • Vacuum hose
  • Solution hose
  • 2-gallon pump-up sprayer
  • Ladder (if drapes or tall)


  • Greasolv
  • Neutral Renue
  • Oxy Plus Booster
  • OMS (Odorless Mineral Spirits)
  • Renue pH Fiber Rinse
  • Renue Deodorizer
  • Top Gum

Solution tank prepared with hot water, deodorizer, and rinse


  1. Examine for stains, ink, and wax; pre-treat these with the appropriate agents, after testing for colorfastness.
  1. If there are rips, tears or other problems with the draperies, record these circumstances to your property contact. You don’t want to get blamed for something you didn’t do.
  1. Draperies with a vinyl blackout stitched to the drapery are usually safe to wet clean and won’t shrink. All others should be tested first to ensure shrinkage will not occur.
  1. Spray the valance (vacuum first if it looks dusty) and each pleat; top to bottom, with Greasolv solution or one with a lesser pH is the drapes are light in color.
  1.  Avoid spraying the ceiling or walls, wipe off any over-spray. Also, be sure the window is not wet/spotted. (Hotel Etiquette)
  1.  Use the extractor, set the water pressure at about 150 psi or lower, spray using the spray gun (or upholstery/drape tool) and extract each pleat, working top to bottom, from one side to the other.
  1.  Drapes are usually dry in about 1hr.


  • Pull Blackout drapes closed prior to spraying. This will keep any overspray off the windows, cutting down your clean-up process.
  • Wear a paper mask and safety glasses when spraying or mixing any chemicals.
  • All chemicals can be mixed in the tank. The sprayer on the hand-tool is a finer spray for applying chemical.
  • Use vacuum and solution hose separately – weighs less.
  • Sheers are very light and tend get sucked up into upholstery tool easily. I suggest using out larger, stainless, vacuum extension or the smaller upholstery tool with the vacuum regulator set to “open” to avoid sucking up the sheer into the tool.
  • Note: Some properties require flame retardant to be reapplied after cleaning drapes. This is done with UNSMOKE Un-Flame fire retardant solution, applied per label at an additional charge.


1-2 hours

Upholstery Cleaning 101


  • Extractor
  • Extension cord
  • Upholstery wand
  • Drapery Tool/ Upholstery Wand
  • Spray gun attachment
  • Vacuum hose
  • Solution hose
  • 2-gallon pump-up sprayer
  • Ladder (if drapes or tall)


  • Greasolv
  • Neutral Renue
  • Oxy Plus Booster
  • OMS (Odorless Mineral Spirits)
  • Renue pH Fiber Rinse
  • Renue Deodorizer
  • Top Gum


1. Examine for stains, ink, and wax; pre-treat these with the appropriate agents, after testing for


2. Spray all upholstery surfaces with Greasolv solution or Neutral Renue depending on color and sensitivity of material.

3. Use the extractor, vacuum set about 200 psi or less, to rinse and vacuum each surface, starting with the back, then arms, seat cushions, and front edge. Use extra care on the heavily soiled areas – front edge of arms and seat cushion, and the headrest on the back.

4. Make sure to clean both sides of the cushions and back of any sofas.

5. On stubborn spots re-treat with Greasolv spray or TOP GUM and extract.

6. Leave the cushions sitting on edge to enhance drying. Do not lay flat on sofa/chair, drying process will be slowed and they could start to mold.


If cleaning microfiber upholstery, do not press too hard with your extraction tool during the cleaning process and post wipe all material with towel or velvet brush to remove the lines left during the extraction process.

Tile and Grout Cleaning 101


  • 1200 psi portable extractor
  • SX-15 or SX-12
  • Gekko wand
  • 17”-175 rpm rotary auto scrubber or cylindrical brush machine
  • Bristle brush attachment for auto scrubber
  • White pad for auto scrubber
  • Sprayer
  • Extension cords
  • Wet floor caution signs
  • Air movers
  • Foam squeegee
  • Scrub brush
  • Wood broom pole
  • Buckets
  • Mop
  • Drape and tape
  • 40x microscope


  • Floorshizzle (high alkaline cleaner) – For Hawaii this is Viper Venom
  • Viper Renew or BG3 (acid cleaner) – For Hawaii this is Viper Renue
  • Knockdown defoamer
  • Premium Stone and Grout Sealer (water-based)


First you will want to place caution cones or signs around your work area. Tape off any stainless steel or brass around baseboards, elevator cabs, washroom stall enclosures or front desk trim. Read the directions for proper dilution ratios. If cleaning a lobby area, do a section at a time to allow hotel guests and employees pass by you without disturbing your work or creating a slip and fall hazard. Fill your extractor with hot water or attached hose for hot water supply. Hook up auto dump hose if desired. Place Knockdown defoamer in recovery tank of extractor to reduce foam caused by cleaning detergents. Choose a cleaner to start with. The most common product to begin cleaning with is an alkaline product (Floorshizzle) and mix chemical in pump up sprayer. Alkaline products are used to clean most soiling in lobby areas and restaurants. Restaurants especially, have a high buildup of F.O. G’s (fat, oil & grease) and those materials are best dissolved using alkaline like Floorshizzle. Acid solutions are good for removing rust and mineral deposits like on pool decks or in public washrooms. Spray the section of the floor you are working on with your chosen cleaning detergent and give the product ample dwell time, 5 minutes is the norm for most products. Now, depending of the overall buildup of contaminants on the floor, you will either scrub that section of the floor with a rotary scrubber, cylindrical machine or just go straight to your SX scrubber attachment. Careful not to leave the dirty slurry sitting on top of the tile too long or it will get absorbed back into the grout. Scrub the areas (edging) closest to the walls with your scrub brush attached to the wooden broom pole. Change your attachment to the Gekko tool to do a final rinse pass across the tile floor. If you notice any stained areas in the grout, apply an acid cleaning agent and scrub (do not put this product on natural stone tiles). Place your air movers on the floor to speed dry the tile and grout. Once the floor is dry, typically just a few minutes, determine if an additional cleaning is needed using a product on the other side of the pH scale from what you started with. So, if you cleaned first with Floorshizzle (an alkaline), you would then re-clean with your acid product following the same procedure you used for the alkaline. Acids will cause microscopic abrasions to the top of the grout often making them appear cleaner and brighter. Once the floor is clean and dry now is the time to apply a sealer. Sealers will help the grout to repel the pollutants on the floor and that dirty mop water that the nightly cleaners like to mop with. Ceramic and porcelain tiles are not porous and applying sealer to them will do nothing. Your objective is to apply the sealer to the grout. You can apply a water-based seal by just pouring a small amount onto the floor and spreading it across the floor using a foam squeegee. There are also grout sealer “sticks” on the market that look like whiffle ball bats that have a roller wheel affixed to the end of them. You would apply the sealer directly to the grout lines using a checkerboard pattern. After sealing the floor, you can buff the tiles to remove any excess sealer that may have gotten onto the tiles when sealing the grout.


If using an acid cleaner like Viper Renew or BG3, be careful not to get any acid sprays onto stainless steel or brass around baseboards, elevator cabs, washroom stall enclosures or front desk trim. The acid products will etch these materials.

Some grout will not come clean. Grout is either sanded or unsanded but almost all are made from cement and cement is very porous. It will absorb dirty water and pollutants over time that is difficult to remove. If you’ve ever watch someone mop a floor, after 5 minutes of mopping the mop water is filthy and they are basically just spreading that dirt around and it’s being absorbed into the grout. Do not use an acid cleaner on marble, limestone, sandstone or travertine floors. The acid will react with calcium in the stone and etch the floor. If for some reason this does happen to you, it is correctible through diamond honing to remove that etching. You can use an acid on granite without issues but always test an area before cleaning. When cleaning a dirty, greasy kitchen, mop an acid onto the floor first and give a dwell time of 5-10 minutes. Many times, the floor has a buildup of alkaline on it from the nightly mopping the hotel staff does with alkaline degreasers. You can typically tell you have a problem if the floor seems real slick and slippery when you walk across it. After you mop the acid off the floor, then clean with your machine, attachments and Floorshizzle your alkaline cleaner. After you’ve completed that process, if your grout lines are still dirty you may want to spray an acid again to try and brighten up those grout lines. Give appropriate dwell time and extract the product off the floor using your Gekko or SX-12. Acid cleaners are effective in removing the grout haze from newly installed tiles. The acid works on breaking down the alkaline contained in grout. If you encounter staining that will not come out, try using a metal brush to remove a thin layer of grout. Also, use your 40x microscope to ensure grout was not previously painted. Possibly, the wrong color grout was used in a previous repair.


Cleaning of the floors will dry almost immediately. Grout sealer will take 30 minutes to an hour depending on the type of sealer used.

Mattress Cleaning 101


  • Extractor with hoses
  • Extension cord
  • Upholstery wand
  • Drapery Tool/ Upholstery Wand
  • Spray gun attachment
  • Vacuum hose
  • Solution hose
  • Hand Sprayer



  • Greasolv
  • Neutral Renue
  • Renue pH Fiber Rinse
  • Renue Deodorizer
  • Disinfectant (Concrobium or Microban)
  • Proxi Clean Spray and Walkaway



  1. 1. Clean the same way as upholstery. Pre-treat urine stains with Odor X Un-Duz-It.


  1. 2. If ‘sanitizing’, apply a disinfectant with a hand-pump, not saturating the mattress, but getting it wet enough to stay wet for the 10 minutes required to kill the microbes. Wear a mask during the

application to avoid breathing the spray.


  1. 3. Leave it propped on the edge or side of the bed against the wall to dry on all sides.



Be careful not to get overspray on headboards or surrounding furniture.

Spray Proxi Clean on any bodily fluid stains that did not come out with the cleaning.



1-2 hours

Mattress Recycling/Replacement 101

Along with mattresses often box springs are included and sometimes bed frames.


  • Trash can dolly (purchase from Home Depot or elsewhere)
  • Large, metal mattress dollies (at least 4 for a project covering 100+ – purchase online)
  • Talon Fire Sprinkler Tool (purchase from
  • Renue neon safety vest (1 per worker – purchase from Renue)
  • 44-gallon rubber trash can (purchase from Home Depot or elsewhere
  • Small step ladder (purchase from Home Depot or elsewhere)


Send out this questionnaire to obtain details of the project.

  • How many rooms total at the property are being serviced?
  • What amount of king vs. queen / double mattresses?
  • Does this include box springs or only mattresses?
  • What are the measurements of the existing mattress that are to be replaced?
  • What is the timing for the project and is there a set schedule for completion of individual floors? If a set schedule, how many rooms are to be done each day?
  • Is there an area where the new / old mattresses can be stored till they are picked up like a meeting room?
  • Is there access for the semi tractor-trailer to park during pick up? Do you have a loading dock?
  • Are we setting up new bed frames as well or are we to use the existing ones?
  • Are there any new headboards that need to be installed? If so, are these simply attached to the bed frames or hung on the wall?
  • Will the hotel allow for the service in occupied rooms? If you decide not to allow for service in occupied, please understand that this will extend how long the project takes and also increase the cost of the project.
  • Are there other trades working in the rooms at the same time? If so, how will this affect the bedding replacement?
  • When will the new product arrive at the property?
  • Please send pictures of the TWO mattress tag(s) so we can confirm the material can be recycled.
  • Do you have service elevators? Can we have exclusive use of either a service elevator or guest elevator during our service?


  • Consult with Renue to obtain contact information of our primary mattress recycler, but there are others in most cities
  • Ensure every question on the questionnaire is answered by the property manager including photos of the mattress tags. Those photos are needed by the mattress recycling company to confirm they can actually be recycled. Very few cannot be recycled, and in that case, the best approach is having a local disposal company haul them away.
  • Example mattress tags:
  • Ensure you or someone trustworthy is on the project the entire time managing people and logistics. The project manager’s role is to point people in the right direction and make calls to the recycler and possibly the delivery company.
  • Ensure whoever is ordering the mattresses requests early morning deliveries, say between 7am and 9am. If there are no mattresses to install there is wasted time.
  • Provide service in occupied rooms and move in a contiguous fashion or to maximize productivity.
  • Obtain a master list of the rooms so you can check them off when complete.
  • Request late afternoon pickup for the mattresses that are being recycled, preferably between 4pm and 5pm.
  • For small or limited stay hotels there will not be a staging area. We suggest renting and having delivered to the property what is called a dead trailer for storage of new or old mattresses. More than one may be needed depending on how much material is being delivered, when it is being delivered and how much labor is on the project. It is recommended that you visit the property beforehand with orange caution cones and mark off this area so no one parks there. Sometimes these hotels have only one or two places where a trailer can park for the duration of the project and you do not want to have a guest car blocking this area.
  • Ask for the deliveries to be spread out according to how many rooms you anticipate installing in a day.
  • Keep handy the phone number of the driver of the disposing/recycling company. You can typically fit about 150 pieces or so on to a trailer. Look to see how the new ones come on the trailers and pack your outbound loads the same to take advantage of the space. Remember, you pay by the trailer load so you want to pack them full.
  • Tear the new mattress bags at the top by hand. The seam splits nicely and becomes a big trash bag for you to stuff the other bags into. You will have a lot of trash doing this and the property will need to schedule additional trash pickups during your install.
  • If you have a service elevator, that is great. Try to get exclusive use of it during your install.

Otherwise, you may have to use the guest elevator. Mornings and afternoons are challenging with guests coming and going but the middle of the day traffic is light. You may find it easier to drag old ones down the stairs. Watch box springs with nails that may be sticking out as they can damage the lips of the stairs.

  • Request two members of housekeeping to work closely with you to open doors, remove bedding and install new bedding and mattress covers if needed.
  • Have a cooler with water available for your team. Have lunch delivered and then keep moving.
  • Watch for overhead sprinkler heads when moving mattresses up and down hallways. Some ceilings are low and you can bump one and flood the hotel.
  • To address this issue we have sourced a sprinkler head clip that we strongly recommend having in your toolbox.
  • Count new mattresses and box springs as they come out of each trailer so you will only be held accountable for the correct number. Plus, the truck driver will ask you to sign the paperwork.
  • Count the number of mattresses and box springs you pack on each truck as they are loaded into the recycler/remover and confirm it in writing with the truck driver.
  • Don’t stack old mattresses outside if it might rain. Water soaked items will not be allowed on the truck.
  • Old mattresses weigh more than new ones.
  • If you are handling bed frames, visit the hotel and see how the old ones come apart. Request information on the new ones to see how they go together. If possible, ahead of time obtain a new one so you can do a dry run of putting one together. The process of tearing down of old frames and installing of new ones takes one worker approximately 20-30 minutes per bed.
  • Old bed frames can be hauled away by a metal recycler. Contact one and tell them to arrive at the end of each day to pick up a load.
  • If you have some loads for recycling and cannot fill a truck every day, have a trailer left on property and picked up when ready.

Talon Fire Sprinkler Tool:

Mattress Dolly:

Carpet Dyeing 101

Note: These are the basics – for specifics consult with one of our technicians that has completed the ISSA certified training for additional material.


  • Spotter/portable extractor
  • Extension cords
  • In-cup water heater or microwave oven
  • Cleaning towels, white
  • Barrel pipettes (droppers)
  • Spoons or measuring devices
  • Straight edge, such as a 6” plastic ruler
  • Knap brush
  • 1-liter sprayer


  • Bleach neutralizer
  • pH adjuster
  • Liquid Dye Prep
  • Dye powders
  • Hot water


1. Identify the carpet fiber – nylon or wool can be re-dyed. Olefin and polyester cannot be dyed.

2. Evaluate the stain.

3. If it is white or just lighter in color, and the fibers look like the rest of the carpet, it can probably be re-dyed.

4. If the fibers look shriveled, and are withdrawn from the surrounding carpet, the fibers are chemically burned and will not take the dye very well. You may be able to remove the burned portion similar to burn repair. If you have good fiber a little further down then you can successfully dye it. Otherwise, you will have to patch the area.

5. If the area has turned a “neon” color or a color outside of the original – i.e. bleach will cause agreen carpet to yellow, turn lighter green or white, but if this same green carpet has turned sky blue or pink that is usually indicative of an acid burn. You may be able to first treat the area with a controlled bleaching process and then dye the carpet.

6. Fill the portable extractor or Spotter with hot water.

7. Spot rinse the area thoroughly to eliminate any soap/dirt/chemical (most housekeeping products that contain bleach also have a detergent in them. The dye will not adhere to the fibers when they are coated with soap.) Be sure to vacuum as much water back as possible.

8. Prepare the bleach neutralizer solution in a small sprayer, using about 3 tablespoons of granules in a pint of hot water and apply to stain.

9. Vacuum off the moisture, making the carpet as dry as you are able.

10. Prepare the dye solutions: 1 cup hot water, 6 drops each of pH adjuster and Liquid dye prep, then respective vegetable dye powders to match the colors in the carpet. Mix them a little lighter first, since you can always make it darker. Use a portable cup heater or a microwave oven to reheat the dye periodically to keep it steaming hot. Make sure all the grains of dye powder are dissolved, so they don’t leave areas of intense color on your work. For future reference, make a record of the dye formulas you used on each property.

11. Use the Barrel pipette to apply drops of dye directly to the pattern, starting with the lighter colors. Vacuum frequently to remove the moisture. Keep the dye mixture hot to open the carpet fibers to accept the dye. If the color is too light after vacuuming, reapply the dye to get more color into the fiber (you may have to darken your dye bath), vacuuming frequently to remove excess water and keep the dye from spreading.

12. For stripes or adjacent colors likely to bleed into one another, press the straight edge between the colors while applying color and vacuuming.

13. When satisfied with the color, go to the next darkest color and repeat until the entire stain is re-dyed.

14. If you make an error, immediately apply color remover.

15. When finished, vacuum dry and use the knap brush to blend the repaired carpet knap into the surrounding carpet.

16. Severe stains may lighten substantially over the next few weeks, requiring a return visit to touch them up.

17. Remind the property – No Cleaning the Area for 48 hours.


Use a microwave to heat your dye bath. Always neutralize stain before applying dyes. Always vacuum after application of dye to keep colors from bleeding into one another.


1-2 hours

VCT Stripping and Waxing 101

Vinyl tile is most commonly found in the back-office hallways seen only by employees. Some of our customers want this cleaned 1) to make the workplace more enjoyable for their employees and 2) because food carts and other items bring in dirt from dirty VCT to other more visible parts of the hotel.


  • Room closed or Wet Floor Signs
  • Drape and Tape
  • Rags
  • Measuring cup
  • Dust mop
  • Scraper or putty knife
  • Plastic garbage bags
  • Goggles & Gloves
  • Water source
  • 2 mop buckets (l-Stripper & I-Rinse Water)
  • 3 Mop heads (2 cotton and one rayon) and two mop handles, properly labeled for stripping & rinsing
  • 175 Rotary Scrubber
  • Stripping pads (black)
  • Polishing pads (white)

Wet-Vac or extractor

  • Air movers


  • Neutral floor cleaning agent
  • Sledgehammer Plus Floor Stripper
  • Brilliant 25 Low Speed Floor Finish


1. Place wet floor signs around the work area.

2. Place drape and tape around areas not intended for service or on sensitive material like stainless or brass on elevator doors.

3. Tape off areas and put rags under doorways to prevent stripper from seeping onto surfaces that you do not want to strip off.

4. Remove any furniture or entrance mats from areas and sweep or dust mop the entire floor surface with an untreated dust mop.

5. Use a scraper or putty knife to remove any sticky substances.

6. Double check that all loose debris has been placed in the trash.

7. Prepare stripping solution in your mop bucket using warm water. Protect yourself with goggles and gloves when handling products. Follow dilution ratios. Prepare a bucket of plain, cool rinse water and your neutral cleaner. Label two separate mops (I strip & I rinse.) using your cotton mop heads.

8. Dip the stripper cotton mop head into the stripping solution, and starting from the far corner of the work area, apply a generous amount of stripping solution. Use a figure 8 or S pattern to assure optimum coverage. Work in small sections at a time. Allow the stripping solution to sit on the surface for approximately 10 minutes. (Make certain it does not begin to dry.) Apply more solution if necessary. At the end of the ten minutes, scrub the wet floor with the rotary scrubber, using 175 rpm’s or lower and a black pad. – Notice the gray liquid, “slurry” that begins to form. This is the old finish turning into an emulsified state.

9. Pick up this slurry with the wet-vac or extractor. Repeat this procedure until the entire work area has been stripped.

10. Remove the tape and rags. Clean floor with neutral floor cleaner to neutralize stripper. Make sure all stripper is completely removed. We recommend cleaning the floor twice with a neutral floor cleaner.

11. Allow the floor to completely dry. Enhance the drying process by using your air movers.

12. Check the surface for two things: shiny spots or alkaline residue. If shiny spots are evident, spot strip that area again. If a gritty powder is evident, that is indicative of an alkaline residue left

behind from the stripper simply rinse again.

13. Once the floor is completely dry, prepare to seal and finish the floor. Place a trash bag into a clean mop bucket and pour in your wax. DO NOT DILUTE.

14. Dip mop head into the wax solution, and starting from the far corner of the work area, apply a light or thin amount of wax. Use a figure 8 or S pattern to assure optimum coverage. Cover the entire floor with the first coat of wax. Wait until the first coat has completely cured before stepping onto the floor. Times may vary but most will dry within 15-30 minutes (use your air mover to enhance dry time). Repeat the process 3-4 additional times depending on the solids content of your wax. If your wax is 20% solids, you will want to apply a total of 5 coats to reach a 100% solids coating.

15. After the last coat has dried sufficiently, buff the floor with the rotary scrubber, using your white pad to enhance the reflectiveness of the wax and remove any air bubbles that formed in the wax. For an even brighter shine, using a high speed burnisher may be necessary.


  • Take your time applying the wax.
  • Ring your mop head out well before applying the wax and move slowly across the floor to avoid causing air bubbles in the wax.
  • Double your figure 8 pattern when applying wax. If you notice bubbles after coating the floor, buff the floor in between coats.


15-30 minutes in between coats. The floor is fine for foot traffic after last coat has dried sufficiently to the touch.

PTAC Cleaning 101

Note that a PTAC is formally known as a Packaged Terminal Air Conditioning unit. It is a unit that can be easily removed and is commonly found in limited-service hotel guest rooms.


  • Portable extractor with hoses
  • PTAC tray(s)
  • Pump up sprayer
  • Hand gun power washing attachment
  • Towels
  • Humidity gauge
  • Coil comb
  • Battery powered drill and screw bits
  • Screw driver
  • Vacuum crevice attachment


  • Coil cleaning chemical (Simple Green – sold at Home Depot)


1. Shut off power at circuit breaker (if needed).

2. Remove power quick coupler from HVAC unit — located under unit on right side usually held on by two screws and a black access cap.

3. Remove dirty air filter and vacuum off.

4. Remove plastic front cover to gain access to front coil and components of unit.

5. Unscrew the four screws on each side of unit holding the PTAC to the wall sleeve. Sometimes these screws are missing. Notify engineer and replace.

6. Slid the unit out of the wall sleeve and place in PTAC tray.

7. Prop up one side of PTAC tray so that water from the cleaning collects to one side of the unit making it easier to extract dirty water and debris.

8. Remove access panels to both interior and exterior coils.

9. Cover control board (electrical components) with cellophane wrap so it does not get wet. Caution should be taken not to spray water near these components during cleaning.

10. Spray interior coils with Simple Green cleaning solution.

11. Pressure spray coils / fins with low psi (about 50-75psi) water and extract

12. Inspect upper drain pan and hose. If plugged or restricted, we will remove and flush to assure proper drainage.

13. Spray exterior coils with Simple Green cleaning solution.

14. Pressure spray exterior coils / fins and fan blades with low psi water.

15. Clean and extract debris from lower pan that can restrict proper drainage.

16. Inspect lower drainage trap. If plugged or restricted we will remove and flush to assure proper drainage.

17. Vacuum wall sleeve. DO NOT spray wall sleeve. This dirty water can stain the exterior of the


18. Slide unit back into wall sleeve and replace for bracing screws.

19. Replace plastic cover.

20. Install new air filter or cleaned filter.

21. Connect power quick coupler and replace black cap and screws.

22.Test unit to make sure it is working properly.


  • Watch closely as you disassemble the unit so that you know how to properly reassemble it. Keep all your screws in a small container off to the side during cleaning.
  • Note that some of our customers may have a different protocol so be sure to check with Renue if in doubt.
  • Please be careful not to get any PTAC thermostat wireless receivers wet as they could stop

functioning. The wireless receiver unit, assuming there is one, is typically located under the front cover on the lower right-hand side and under the control board, although it may be located in a different spot. It is usually identifiable by a small antenna. See the picture below. Try covering the entire area with a shower cap and avoid spraying water anywhere near that area. A best practice is to cover the sensor and control board since that entire area is the most sensitive area on all PTACs regardless if there is a wireless receiver or not. Thus, you should always avoid spraying water there. During normal cleaning, water does collect in the area under that side of the evaporator coil so we recommend vacuuming any standing water. There is less of a concern on units that have hardwired thermostats, but newer units and newer hotels tend to have wireless receivers. As always, turn off the PTAC unit first at the wall thermostat before you start your cleaning. If unsure whether the unit is wireless or hardwired ask the engineer. If wireless we encourage you to ask the engineer to show you exactly where the wireless receiver on the PTAC unit is located. If the wireless receiver does get wet unfortunately the unit likely will not turn on and will need to be replaced. The unit and associated programming of it can be costly. Lastly, and very importantly, do not clean or spray the blower wheel on Trane units.

Smoking Room Cleaning 101


  • Extractor with hoses
  • Thermo Fogger
  • Extension cord
  • Upholstery wand
  • Drapery Tool/ Upholstery Wand
  • Spray gun attachment
  • Vacuum hose
  • Solution hose
  • Hand Sprayer
  • Air mover
  • Towels
  • Buckets
  • Demo Cups


  • Renue Greasolv
  • Knockdown Defoamer
  • Thermo 55
  • Renue Rinse – textile rinse
  • T.O.P. Gum spot remover
  • Spotting agents
  • Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral
  • Thermo and or Wet Fogging agent
  • Mini Drain Pan Strips


1. Prepare the room by moving atop the bed small chairs, wastebaskets, and other small moveable objects.

2. Turn off the air conditioner.

3. Move furniture away from the drapes.

4. Prepare the solution tank of the extractor with 15 gallons of hot water, 10 ounces of Rinse.

5. Begin with the draperies, using the smaller extraction wand and machine pressure set at 200 psi. Use the hand pump to spray the Greasolv mixture onto the drapes and valance, generally working left to right, then rinse and extract, also working left to right. [For a demonstration, remove some of the rinse water into a glass and label it. Rinse the tank with clean water before Proceeding.]

6. Next do the upholstery. Pre-treat any stains with TOP Gum or other appropriate agent, pre-spray, rinse and extract using 200psi. Leave the cushions standing so they get air circulation for faster drying. [For a demonstration, remove some of the rinse water into a glass and label it. Rinse the tank with clean water before proceeding.]

7. Finally, do the carpet. Switch to the larger extraction wand. Pre-spray heavily in traffic areas, lighter in non-traffic areas.

8. Rinse, and extract the carpet, using about 400 psi. Lift up the bedspread at the lower corners to get it out of the way. [For a demonstration, remove some of the rinse water into a glass and label it.] Leave the three-labeled glasses of wastewater atop the vanity – not on wood furniture.

9. Hand wipe all the materials cleaned with a water and Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral dilution.

10. Wipe down all vinyl wallpaper and furniture with a dilution of water and Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral.

11. You can then fog the room using a thermo or wet fogger and appropriate fogging agent or spray material cleaned with a topical mist coating of Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral.

12. Turn on the air conditioner and open a window; replace furniture and objects to where you found them, using leg protectors under wood furniture that doesn’t have plastic bottoms. Use a respirator if fogging.

Skip steps 13 and 14 if you thermo fogged the room.

13. Set up the blower in the doorway to hasten drying.

14. For demonstrations, notify the head housekeeper and the GM that the room is complete; point out the labeled glasses and explain the yellow color in the upholstery is from nicotine, the gold-brown colors from smoke residue. To complete the cleaning or a smoking-room conversion, the hotel staff should lauder all bedding and linens.

15. Mattress cleaning is optional; if it is to be done, the housekeeping staff should have removed all the bedding from the room beforehand. Clean both sides of the mattress and any visible stains on the box springs.


Do not put Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral in your cleaning solution of the machine. You don’t want to extract this product from material cleaned. It is meant to be a masking agent for the smoke.


2-6 hours depending on conditions

Cooking and Malodor Room Treatment 101

Same process as Smoking Room treatment but your chemical selection may vary. Also, cleaning of the stove top and stove vents will be necessary. Soak any vent filters in a solution of Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral for 20 minutes or so during your cleaning and thoroughly rinse and reinstall.

Flood Restoration 101

We will cover only light to mild water loss recovery during your training. Water loss and the proper treatment is a very involved offering and we strongly recommend that you take a certified IIRCR WRT (Water Restoration Technician Course) to get further educated on the principles of this service.


  • Extractors
  • Extension cord
  • Carpet wand
  • Drapery Tool/ Upholstery Wand
  • Spray gun attachment
  • Vacuum hose
  • Solution hose
  • Hand Sprayer
  • Air movers (one to two per room or 1 per 350 sq. ft.)
  • LGR Dehumidifier
  • Moisture gauges
  • Towels


  • Disinfectant (Concrobium)


1. Give all your clients the mold/mildew instruction sheet that follows this page BEFORE they have the problem, so they know what to do when the inevitable happens.

2. The hotel staff must remove the furniture from the room.

3. If the spill included sewerage, wear protective clothing, goggles, and gloves. Depose of all material contaminated with sewage. Contains blood borne pathogens and we do not clean these materials by law.

4. Use the extractors to remove as much water as possible from the carpet. Keep count of the number of gallons extracted to report to hotel management for a possible insurance claim if the damages exceed their deductible.

5. Spray the carpet with Greasolv, rinse and extract. If too much water is present, dry extract carpet then proceed with Concrobium. Set appointment to clean carpet after it is completely dry.

6. Wearing respirators, liberally spray the carpet with undiluted disinfectant from the hand-pump. It is helpful to spray disinfectant beneath the carpet too, if possible.

7. Set up LGR (Low Grain Refrigerants) dehumidifiers and blowers up to assist drying.

8. You may want to float the carpeting if the padding is soaked. Do this by placing a blower under a far corner of the carpeting but above the padding.

9. Only replace furniture when room is completely dry.

10. Check back after a few days and check machinery and conditions of the room. If it has an odor re-apply your disinfectant if a mildew-type odor has recurred.

11. If the spill included sewerage, disinfect the machines with bleach and rinse them well with clean water to remove bleach residue.

12. Sewerage is also known as “Black Water”. The EPA suggests pulling up the carpet, padding and disposing of all materials that came into contact with the sewerage; however, if mild from toilet overflow (above the trap) it can be treated and fixed.


We strongly suggest everyone take the WRT-IICRC certified course. Water restoration is a very detailed and comprehensive service. If the affected areas are not dried quickly, mold can and will begin to grow. Mold and mildew spores are airborne and naturally occur everywhere, but they only grow, reproduce, and cause odors when the following conditions are met:

  • Moisture
  • Darkness
  • Still Air
  • Food is available– the principal food source is the soil in carpets or textiles.

Most carpets are composed of synthetic fibers with latex backing, which contain no other food source. Natural fibers or jute backings can also provide food.

When a flood or water spill on carpet occurs:

1. Call Renue Systems to 1) clean the carpet to remove the food sources, 2) extract excess moisture from the carpet, and 3) set up a turbo-fans and dehumidifiers to dry it faster.

2. Renue Systems will apply a powerful FDA-approved disinfectant spray to the carpet to kill mold and mildew organisms and their spores. If the problem is in an advanced stage, up to three applications may be required to bring it under control or we may suggest calling in a Building Hygienist to further evaluate the extent of the problem and set a course for mold remediation.

3. Keep lights on in the room at all times.

4. To draw moisture out of the room air, and use a portable LGR dehumidifier if one is available. Turn the heat on in the room as well. The heat will add energy to the water molecules causing them to become active and release into the atmosphere of the room where the dehumidifier will catch these water molecules.

5. Keep one or more fans operating in the room to maximize air movement.

6. Change the filters in the air handling system frequently.

7. Continue these measures for at least a week after the odor condition subsides, and resume immediately if the odor recurs. Odors are likely to subside during the winter heating season and recur in the months of higher natural humidity.


Do not delay in taking corrective measures whenever carpet becomes wet – prevention of odor is MUCH easier than controlling it once it occurs! If these measures are not effective, the source of the odor is probably not the carpet – it may be in the walls, ventilation system, or elsewhere. In this case a building hygienist service is needed to deal with the problem.


Dry times can range from hours if not days depending on how server the water loss was, response time and conditions. It is important to constantly check the equipment and conditions of the areas affected during the recovery.

Blood Stain Treatment 101


PPE equipment:

  • Latex gloves
  • Goggles
  • Shoe slip covers
  • Respirator (if needed)
  • Coveralls (if needed)
  • Small extractor with hoses
  • Large extractor with hoses
  • Hazardous waste trash bags
  • Carpet wand
  • Drapery Tool/ Upholstery Wand
  • Spray gun attachment
  • Hand Sprayer
  • Pump up sprayer
  • Inject-o-mate
  • Water Claw
  • Buckets
  • Disposable rags
  • Paper towels
  • Caution signs
  • Tarp


  • Concrobium disinfectant
  • It meets EPA standards for hospital disinfectants and kills fungi and viruses including HIV-1 (the AIDS virus), Herpes Simplex Types I and II, and all Influenza Type A viruses including H1N1. Also, it is approved by the US EPA as a high-level disinfectant, fungicide, tuberculocide and Virucide (against HIV-1)
  • Greasolv
  • Renue Lemon Deodorizer
  • Bleach


Guest rooms or other areas contaminated or suspected of contamination with blood or body fluids must be specially treated to remove the contamination and disinfect all of the textile surfaces within the room to ensure the safety of hotel staff and subsequent hotel guests occupying the room. When the extent and/or nature of the contamination are not known, the entire room and its contents must be treated as potentially hazardous. It must be assumed that there is contamination beyond that which is visible.

Hotel Staff responsibilities:

  • Housekeeping staff should notify their supervisor as soon as a suspicious situation is encountered – when in doubt, wear protective clothing including gloves and a protective apron. Follow the hotel’s Biohazard Response Procedure, including special disposal of the gloves and aprons used, as well as any trash from the contaminated room.
  • Limit the number of people who enter the room to those who are needed to attend an injured or ill guest until medical help arrives; document the damage, including photos, and take steps to prevent odors or reduce hazards to staff and hotel guests.
  • Hotel management should notify Renue Systems as soon as the event occurs – effective stain removal and odor control depend upon prompt treatment. Renue Systems staff will disinfect the room contents and bag up linens and trash, handing them out of the room to hotel staff.
  • Wear gloves and protective aprons to remove trash and the bagged linens to the hotel laundry. Any items removed from the room should be discarded, disinfected, or laundered. Colorfast items should be wiped with a solution of 1-part bleach + 9 parts water, prepared fresh on day of use.
  • Launder the contaminated items separately from other hotel laundry following the hotel biohazard policy, or use hot water and bleach to disinfect them. Repeat the wash step. Machine dry.
  • Do not return any linens or items to the room until the Renue Systems recovery treatment has been completed, including any necessary re-spray of disinfectant/deodorant.
  • The disinfectant spray used by Renue Systems may dry on room surfaces, leaving a slightly sticky film. These surfaces should be wiped with a damp cloth and towel-dried after Renue Systems has completed the cleanup. There is no further risk to the staff to work in the room after disinfecting has been completed.
  • Contact your biohazard waste disposal company to pick up any contaminated trash accumulated from the clean-up process.

The Renue Systems Recovery process:

  • Renue technicians must wear personal protective equipment during the process (respirator masks, shoe covers, gloves, and disposable overalls)
  • Set up a work area right outside by the room by placing a plastic tarp on the floor and caution cones around this work area. It is best to perform this service using two employees; One employee working inside the room and the other outside handing in necessary equipment and taking contaminated material out. You do not want to cross contaminate other areas of the hotel
  • Pre-treat visibly contaminated areas with FDA-approved, hospital-grade disinfectant, then mist the entire room including bed linens using Concrobium.
  • Bag linens and trash, hand out of the room to hotel staff for laundering or disposal.
  • Pre-treat visible blood or body fluid stains with Greasolv for their removal.
  • Clean and deodorize drapes, upholstery, carpet, and mattresses. Check all hard and case goods as well.
  • Mist the entire room with approved hospital grade disinfectant.
  • Bagging & decontamination of all Renue Systems equipment, chemical bottles, etc. that has been taken into the room. Again, you must clean and disinfect all your equipment so you don’t cross contaminate another area of that hotel or another hotel you may clean later that day or the next.


We recommend all Renue Systems employees providing this service should get all the applicable vaccines e.g., hepatitis A, B & C. After you finish cleaning and disinfecting the room, carefully remove your equipment from the hotel without contaminating other areas. You will now need to clean and disinfect all the equipment that may have come into contact with the blood or bodily fluids that you cleaned. I prefer to do this in the loading dock of the hotel before loading my equipment on the truck and possibly contaminating my vehicle. Spray the inside of your recovery tank with bleach, the wheels, the wands the hoses and any other items you may have used. Bleach is one of the strongest disinfectants known. Give the bleach just a few minutes dwell time then hose off and rinse thoroughly all the equipment. Dry everything off and then load into your vehicle. It is now safe to bring this equipment into another facility without the worries of possible cross contamination.

Pet Room Treatment 101


  • Extractor with hoses
  • Extension cords
  • Black Lite (inspection light)
  • Carpet wand
  • Water Claw
  • Upholstery wand / Drapery Tool
  • Spray gun attachment
  • Pump Up Sprayer
  • Injectimate
  • Air mover
  • Towels
  • Buckets
  • Chalk
  • Vacuum (can use one from the hotel)


  • Odor X Un-Duz-It
  • Pro’s Choice OS1


How does the room smell upon entering? Does it smell like you have a problem? Urine has a very strong and pungent odor that is hard to hide. If you detect an odor, shut off all the lights in the room and draw closed all the draperies. Get the room as dark as possible. Walk the entire room shinning your black light on the carpet, walls, upholstery, sides of the bed, in closets and even under beds in extreme cases. Sometimes you need to get on your hand and knees to smell any areas highlighted by the inspection light to confirm it is urine or just something that fluoresces under black lights. If your exam reveals areas of pet urine, vomit, or feces; circle those areas with chalk so that when we turn on the lights, we still will know where those stains are located. Apply our proprietary Odor X Un-Duz-It prespray (a biological enzyme that will digest the residual contaminants) to those stains. Soak those areas heavily with your pump-up sprayer or inject the areas using your injectimate. Allow the product about 5 minutes dwell time. Extract all the carpeting but pay special attention to those areas. You may even want to use your Water Claw if you really saturated the stains with chemical and flushed it with large amounts of water. The Water Claw will draw out more of the water used to flush the contaminants than just a carpet wand or upholstery tool. After you’ve cleaned the entire room and all the stains, apply the Odor X Un-Duz-It once again as a topical spray. This enzyme that will continue to work on the bacteria that is causing the odors. If you’ve determined that a stain was severe, saturate that area with Odor X Un-Duz-It and place a piece of cellophane overtop to prevent the product from drying up too quickly. This will allow the enzymes in the product to continue to break down the bacteria or urine.


This process may not totally remove all the residual odors caused by the pet contaminants. You may have to retreat the areas again or in extreme cases, the material affected may need to removed and thrown away. We have had some success using Pro’s Choice OS1 to treat bad urine odors. Please follow label instructions when using this product. In some cases, the amount of urine is just too much to affectively remediate those malodors as they have most likely soaked through the carpet, into the padding and even onto the porous concrete. This process has proven results but is not guaranteed. It’s cost effectiveness vs. simply removing all the old carpet makes it a financially viable alternative. We normally do not pre vacuum the carpeting. Hotel staff is responsible for this step but if you arrive and there is pet hair still evident, ask to have the room re vacuumed or do it yourself.


2-6 Hours

Spot Removal 101


Before treating each of the following stains, pre-clean the spots with just hot water and your extractor.


  • Use the chemicals listed in the chart for the specific stain.


Try to identify the spot/stain and use the chart accordingly.

Heat Transfer: The stain removal process that uses an iron, chemical, water & a towel to remove set in dye stains.

You will need the following items in order to perform this process:

  • Iron
  • White towels
  • Dye stain remover (Spot-Out, CR 2, CR 3, ammonia, white vinegar, Red One, Stain Magic, Stain Magic for Wool & Red Relief.
  • Top Gum, Greasolv, Oxy Plus Booster & Deodorizer
  • Water
  • Small extractor with hoses
  • Extension cords
  • Respirator

Process for Heat Transfer: Wear a respirator. Pre-clean the spot with hot water using your extractor. Mix chosen dye stain remover in hand sprayer. Open a window or door and turn on AC or vent. Plug in your iron and turn it on its hottest setting. Wet and ring out a white towel (must be white). Spray stain with dye stain remover and cover with white towel. Place hot iron on top of towel and leave for 30 seconds to a minute. Steam will start to rise from the towel during this process drawing the stain out of the carpet dye lots and into the towel. Check iron to make sure auto shut off has not kicked in. After about a minute, repeat the process and move the towel over to an unused section. Keep doing this process until you’ve completely removed the stain or you start to remove the color of the carpeting. The residual odor from this process may be intense. Spray a post stain removal deodorizer like Renue Lemon or Odorcide 210 Fresh Scent or Chemspec Kill Odor Floral in the room you are working in and even the support hallway. This will help to mask that odor.


Do NOT use CR 2 on wool. Use only wool safe chemicals when doing heat transfer on wool carpeting. Be careful and watch for fiber distortion and color bleeding.]

Grout Painting 101


  • All tile and grout cleaning equipment
  • Paint trays
  • Knee pads
  • Rags and bucket
  • Small brushes
  • Applicator bottles (Home Depot {tile and grout sealer bottle with wheel on top})
  • Sample color kit (mostly for demonstrations and color selection)


  • Windex
  • Floor sizzle
  • Epoxy paint from Grout Shield


Grout Shield 9 Madison Ave. No. Bay Shore NY 11706

To contact customer service: 1-800-631-0716

Visit their website at


First, it is important to prepare the grout surface before Grout Shield Color Seal is applied. To accomplish that, the grout does not need to be stain free, but must be dirt free. Grout is porous (colored concrete) and the pores hold dirt and filth. The most successful way to clean the grout is with Grout Shield Floor Stripper. The floor stripper should be diluted 4-6 ounces to every gallon of water. This can be sprayed onto the grout joints with a garden sprayer or mopped on the floor. After allowing the cleaner to dwell for 5 minutes, the traffic area should be scrubbed with a long-handled scrub brush. Before the fluid dries it is necessary to vacuum it up or use a towel to get the excess fluid. The grout joints can be damp, but not wet when the sealer is applied. Attach a 16-ounce bottle that has been filled with Grout Shield Color Seal to an injector brush or yorker top, depending on the package you ordered. Have your clean water bucket half full with clean, warm water and our trimmed chamois on the bucket. Wrap your hand around the bottle. Place the injector on the first grout line, about 1⁄2 inch from the wall or corner and squeeze the bottle, lightly but firmly, until some sealer flows down onto the grout joint, then pull the injector down the grout joint smoothly. Use the brush to now go over the line of sealer and brush it into the grout. Go back to the small unsealed section of the grout joint where you started and take your finger tip and push the sealer to the wall or corner. After completing the entire single grout joint, remove a chamois from the clean water bucket and wring it out until only damp. Fold in half and apply light pressure with your hand. Wipe the chamois over the tile to remove the excess sealer from the tile but not the grout joint.

Wiping across a grout joint will remove the sealer. Rinse the chamois often to prevent sealer residue from building up on the tile. Seal all parallel grout joints, Figure 1, in the area first and allow drying to the touch before sealing the perpendicular grout joints. After the job is completed, spray glass cleaner on floors or walls and buff to take off excess residue as shown in Figure 2. This technique applies to right-handed installers. Reverse instructions for left-handed installers.

The next step is to dry buff with a towel or a polish pad to remove any residue from the tile. Glass cleaner can be misted on the floor in areas that sealer residue is hard to remove. Buff again with towel or polish pad on the floor. The final step is to check all the grout joints after drying to the touch for proper coverage.


Once the Grout Shield process has been completed, in order to maintain the “just finished” look please follow these instructions:

1. Always vacuum the entire area to be cleaned thoroughly removing all dirt and dust from the tiles. Neutral or mild cleansers are all that is needed to effectively clean the tiles. Now that the grout has been sealed with Grout Shield Color Seal, the same is true. We recommend using their maintenance cleaning solution with one gallon of warm water or as specified on label.

2. Apply the cleaner generously to floor with a sponge mop. Let it sit for 3-4 minutes (Do Not Scrub), this allows the cleaner to emulsify and loosen any dirt or oils that are on the floor.

3. Take a clean, dry terry cloth towel and dry the floor changing the terry cloth often.

4. Completely dry the grout lines using a terry cloth. Because grout lines are slightly lower than the rest of the floor, the liquids will settle there. To prevent the now dirty cleaner residue on the Grout Shield Color Seal the final step is to dry the grout lines to complete the floor cleaning process. As time passes, should the grout begin looking dirty with uneven color in high traffic areas, try this easy step: Pour a small amount of undiluted Grout Shield maintenance cleaner or an undiluted window cleaner on 2-3 inches of the grout line in that traffic area. Allow the cleaner to sit 3-4 minutes, (DO NOT SCRUB). With a clean cloth or paper towel wipe up the cleaner. There will be dirt on the towel and the grout line will be clean once again. This is a maintenance issue that can be avoided by cleaning the floor following steps 1-4 using a slightly stronger solution.


  • We order our epoxy grout paint from Grout Shield and get corporate discounting. Please call our home office for pricing.
  • Don’t wait too long after applying paint to the grout lines to begin wiping down the floor to remove excess paint. You could also use a white pad and a swing machine to remove excess paint.
  • Apply it thick enough to provide a durable finish but not too thick that it won’t dry in a reasonable time.
  • The deeper the grout liners are recesses in comparison to the surface of the tile, the less likely the epoxy will be worn off with foot traffic.
  • It is extremely important you get the grout clean before applying the epoxy. Failure to do so will result in the systems not adhering properly to the grout.
  • Sanded and unsanded grout can be colored with epoxy systems.


Usually, it’s dry to the touch in 15 minutes and can be walked on in 45-60 minutes.

Kitchen Cleaning 101


There are many components to kitchen cleaning, of which the most popular include:

  • Floors
  • Walls
  • Ceiling Tiles (Vinyl Tiles)
  • Appliances (Commercial Fryers, Ovens and Grill Tops/Griddles)
  • Hoods (including Ducts)
  • Grease Traps / Hydro Jetting Drains

Renue is currently able to offer the first four. Hoods and grease traps are areas we may take on in the future – and can consider doing so even now on a case-by-case basis – but they are highly specialized and, in some locations, require certification. Floors and walls we already know how to handle. Below are initial descriptions of ceiling tiles and appliances. Over time we anticipate refining and expanding on them.

Why should you clean your kitchen?

There are many reasons why you should clean your ceiling tiles, appliances, surfaces and other areas in the kitchen. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Sanitation Performance Standards requires that all nonfood contact surfaces of equipment shall be kept free of an accumulation of dust, dirt, food residue and other debris. This also includes ceiling tiles. Kitchen tiles are composed of vinyl covered sheetrock so they are both cleanable and fireproof. Over time, ceiling tiles become covered in airborne pollutants that turn white ceiling tiles a brownish color. This is mostly caused by grease aerosols during the cooking process. This combined with water vapors from dish washing areas creates humid conditions that results in ceiling tile pollutants dripping from the ceiling and possibly onto food prep areas. Cleaning ceiling tiles from those pollutants helps maintain their inherent fire resistance. Cleaning ceiling tiles and walls regularly results in better lighting throughout the facility. By doing so, less lighting is needed and subsequently there is a realized energy savings. A well light facility is also a safer workplace. Dirty ceiling tiles, walls and appliances are unsightly and can be a key indicator for local health inspectors that the facility is not up to code. In short, a clean, bright and safe facility is attractive, improves air quality and fosters a healthier environment for customers and employees.

Kitchen Cleaning 101 – Ceilings – Vinyl Tile



  • Unger extension poles. We suggest aluminum 4-8 foot and 6-12-foot poles
  • Unger FIXI0 Plastic Fixi – Sponge Clamp
  • 3M extra-large commercial sponges – 7.5 x 4.25 x 2 inches
  • Flat microfiber mop holder and approx. 6 replacement flat microfiber mop heads
  • WORKPRO 16-Piece Nylon Spring Clamp Set – 4 pieces of 6-1/2 inch clamps, 6 pieces of 4-½ inch clamps, 6 pieces of 3-3/8 inch clamps
  • Clean empty bucket
  • Disposable plastic tarps
  • Duct and painters tape
  • Many clean white rags
  • 6-foot aluminum ladder
  • Face shield, goggles and rubber gloves
  • Pump-up sprayer. An electric sprayer with an extension pole can make applying your degreaser easier. You will use more chemical but for very greasy tiles this can be a time saver
  • High Alkaline Degreaser (Viper Venom or Floorshizzle)
  • Carpet extractor with spray gun for PTAC cleaning
  • Wet/Dry vacuum with floor wand
  • Mop and mop bucket
  • Trash bags

Most of this equipment can be purchased on Amazon.


1. Ask the customer to make sure grills and fryers are turned off long before you arrive so that you can safely tarp those areas. If grills or fryers are not cooled in time you may need to create a barrier wall using ZIPWALL poles and plastic tarps. The other workaround is you can clean the ceiling tiles in that area by hand.

2. Examine the ceiling tiles and make note of any damaged tiles before cleaning. Notify your

customer of any issues you may have discovered.

3. Take many before photos.

4. Start tarping all furniture including racks, food prep counters, cooktops and kitchen ware storage. You are basically covering everything you do not want your cleaning agents to drip on during your service. The better the job you do tarping the easier your cleanup will be.

5. Start pre-spraying your tiles. Work in a rather small area of approx. 5 feet by 5 feet.

6. Cleaning by hand can be done using a pump-up sprayer, extension poles, sponges, rags and even a flat microfiber mop. If you want to try something more mechanical you can use an electric sprayer to apply your chemical and your carpet extractor set at a low psi to clean the tiles using the PTAC wand or other similar extension wand with spray tip. The latter creates more mess on the floor but is much faster for larger, wide-open spaces. By hand, spray the tiles and then use the sponge attached to the Unger clamp and wipe tiles. You can cut the sponge into triangle shapes to run down the tracks of the ceiling tiles. You can also use a microfiber mop on an extension pole to clean the tiles. Dip the sponge or flat microfiber mop head into a clean water bucket to rinse and then another bucket that has been diluted with the same chemical you used to pre-spray the tiles. Back and forth motion works best. Try not to push up to hard on the tiles or you will knock them out of place. There is another approach which takes longer but minimizes the mess. If the tiles are not too badly coated with grease, you can simply dip the sponge on the pole into the mixture of chemical and then wipe the tiles.

7. Open any fluorescence light covers and clean inside and out. There is an additional cost for this service.

8. Clean any ceiling vents or registers. There is an additional cost for this service.

9. Replace any ceiling vents or registers that are rusted out with vinyl ones. There is an additional cost for this service.

10.Remove tarps and mop all floors. Dry quickly with air movers.

11.Take many after photos from the same vantage points as your before photos.

It is suggested you have at least a two-person crew for this work. Each technician should alternate cleaning the ceiling tiles every hour to avoid neck and shoulder fatigue. One employee can clean and the other can move items and replace supplies. Be careful working around fire suppression sprayers and sprinkler heads. Do not directly spray these fixtures or aggressively clean by hand. Consider purchasing a Locking Sprinkler Pliers in the event you break a sprinkler head.


Office acoustical ceiling tiles can also be cleaned using a similar process. We suggest changing the chemical from high alkaline to oxygenated cleaner or non-bleaching peroxide. You may want to pre-vacuum near the air returns or registers.

Set correct expectations. A safe assumption is that you will make an 80% improvement back to new. We recommend a sample cleaning. You just need a sponge, chemical, step ladder and spray bottle. It is very simple and can help sell the job and set proper expectations. You can use Betco Green Earth® Peroxide Cleaner to brighten up tiles. You can purchase ceiling tile paint on Amazon to help cover any staining such as water marks. Two shades or variants of white are the most common.



  • Actual costs depend on job size, scale, conditions and options.
  • We recommend US $0.40+ per square foot.
  • Two technicians can cover approx. 2,000 square feet. in 4 hours.
  • Options for added pricing include vent or ceiling register cleaning, fluorescence light fixture cleaning, lightbulb replacement or ceiling tile replacement, and repairs to ceiling tile tracks (if there is a sagging ceiling).
  • Ceiling tile cleaning is approx. 1/3 the cost of replacement. This cost does not include any lost downtown by the facility which would result in an even higher replacement cost.

Flat microfiber mop and holder

Flat microfiber mop and holder

Unger Plastic Fixi

Unger Plastic Fixi

Unger extension pole

3M Extra Large Commercial Sponge

WorkPro Clamps

Kitchen Cleaning 101 – Appliances – Commercial Fryers

A commercial deep fryer is one of the greasiest and expensive pieces of equipment in the kitchen. Without regular deep cleaning, a deep fryer can become a fire hazard. That’s why it’s so important to do a deep cleaning of your commercial fryer every three to six months depending on how much it is used. It also helps protect the taste of the food. Properly cleaning and maintaining your fryers will help ensure your food tastes great and a safe dining experience for your customers. An added operational benefit of regular deep cleaning of commercial deep fryers is the energy savings. Caked-on carbon deposits on fryer walls and coils causes machines to have to work harder to heat up. Keeping them clean will save energy, time and money.


  • Drain pan – plastic or metal for cooking oil
  • Fryer cleanout rod
  • High temperature fryer brushes

A good site for acquiring the cleanout rod and brushes:


  • PPE – protective gear including nitrile gloves (heat proof gloves), goggles/safety glasses and a vinyl apron
  • Regular plastic scrub brush with a long handle
  • Laser thermometer to ensure oil is cooled off
  • Synthetic scrub pad
  • Paper towels and cloths
  • Plastic scrapers (NOT metal)
  • Large nonabrasive sponges
  • Clean buckets
  • Garden hose with sink hose adaptors
  • Elbow grease (big can)
  • Nyco® Deep Fat Fryer Cleaner – liquid or packets (for interior surfaces)
  • Nyco® Attention Clinging Oven & Grill Cleaner (for exterior surfaces)

Site for Nyco cleaners:


A deep fryer boil-out is a process that involves emptying fryer oil, boiling water with a special cleaning solution in the fryer and flushing with clean water. This process removes grease and most carbon deposits.

1. Take the fryer baskets out to the sink and clean them or leave them inside the fryer during the boil out.

2. Turn off the commercial deep fryer, close the gas supply inlet and turn off the pilot light (if gas powered).

3. Allow the deep fryer unit, including the oil, to cool completely. Check with the thermometer to confirm the oil is no more than 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Place an oil pan drum under the drain and drain the cooled oil. Remove any large debris from inside including anything blocking the drain valve. TIP – Under the fryer in the cabinet is where you typically find the drain tube extension. Locate this item and thread it into the valve.

5. Close the drain valve. Wipe the interior of the unit with clean paper towels or cloths.

6. Fill the deep fryer tank with cool water 4 inches from the top.

7. Add 4 ounces of Nyco® Deep Fat Fryer Cleaner liquid for every gallon of water. This solution is a powerful foam cleaner that works to loosen any baked-on grease and oil. Alternatively, you can use convenient Nyco® Deep Fat Fryer Cleaner Portion Control Packets, with one packet for every 2 gallons of water.

8. Turn on the heater and slowly boil water with cleaning solution for 20-30 minutes. Very heavy carbon deposits in the fryer may take longer. Do not leave the fryer unattended. Be careful not to let water boil too high as it may splash out and cause burns. You can leave the fryer baskets in the fryer to get those cleaned as well.

9. Turn off the fryer and let the water cool.

10. Place a large pan underneath the drain valve and slowly drain the water into it. Scrub the interior walls with a long-handled brush while the water is draining to remove any remaining soils.

11. Flush the fryer thoroughly with water to remove all cleaning solution. Then wipe the interior dry with paper towels or cloths and allow all parts to dry completely. Close the drain valve.

12. Clean the exterior of the unit using degreaser and paper towels. You can also use a commercial steamer for this if you have one. Remove temperature knobs and clean behind them and the knobs themselves. They typically just pull directly off.

13. Fill the fryer with new cooking oil. Note that the customer should replace the old disposed of oil with new oil.

It is important to not use abrasives cleaning agents, tools (like steel wool) or a harsh chemical, especially any chemical with some type of grit or abrasive inside the cleaning agent. This will damage the stainless steel.


We suggest US $100-$125 per technician hour. Small fryers (2 baskets) will take approx. 2-3 hours on average.

Kitchen Cleaning 101 – Appliances – Ovens

Each manufacturer has some differences in disassembly and cleaning suggestions. It is a good practice to google the make and model of the particular oven and review cleaning recommendations in the owner’s manual.


  • Commercial grade steamer (this tool is very helpful in expediting the process but not necessary)
  • Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
  • High heat rubber gloves
  • Protective eyeglasses
  • Heat protective apron
  • Nyco Oven Cleaner
  • Long handle cleaning brush
  • Plastic pail for fresh water
  • Non-abrasive synthetic scrub pads
  • Paper towels and cloths
  • Plastic scrapers (NOT metal)
  • Large nonabrasive sponges
  • As always, much elbow grease


  1. Remove any trays or racks and take them to the sink for cleaning.
  2. Empty and clean any grease and crumb trays.
  3. Spray oven cleaner evenly onto interior surfaces.
  4. Allow time to penetrate soils.
  5. Scrub or brush surfaces to remove any soils. Use plastic scrapers to remove large deposits.
  6. Wipe surfaces clean.
  7. Rinse with water.
  8. Allow to dry completely.
  9. Replace cleaned trays and oven racks.
  10. Spray exterior surfaces with cleaner.
  11. Allow time to penetrate soils.
  12. Scrub with nonabrasive pads or steam with commercial steamer.
  13. Wipe surfaces clean.
  14. Rinse with water.
  15. Allow to dry completely.
  16. Season cast iron grates with cooking oil.


Read the oven manufacturer’s directions for safe cleaning. Google the make and model for specific instructions.

If the oven is electric be careful not to damage heating elements inside of oven. If the oven is gas the pilot may need to be extinguished before cleaning. Sometimes it is necessary to move this equipment away from the walls to clean behind and underneath the appliance. This equipment can be very heavy so make sure you have enough and help and good game plan for moving the appliance before attempting. Also, if you are moving the equipment, the gas lines will need to be disconnected and reconnected. This is not something you or your employees should attempt to do. Ask either the facility engineer to do this or the customer to hire a professional to handle it.

For conveyor ovens note that a conveyor unit has many different parts that make it operate, so remove each separately and clean them. Power wash outside or steam with a commercial steamer.

Thoroughly clean impingement fingers (little nozzles under conveyor belts that supply hot air), crumb trays and the conveyor belt.Most oven doors can be removed to help gain access to  inside the oven. For cleaning, if the racks within the oven are too large to fit inside the kitchen sinks, they can be power washed outside. Rotisserie ovens are similar to other ovens but have spits and rotors that accumulate crumbs and grease. Remove these items for cleaning. Steam clean or hand clean with the right degreaser and cleaning detergents.



US $100-$125 per technician-hour. Most average sized ovens can be done in 2 hours or less.

Conveyor and rotisserie ovens take additional time as there are more parts to disassemble and clean.

Fryer brushes

Cleanout rod REMCO plastic scrapers

Plastic drain pan Nyco Deep Fat Fryer Cleaner

Nyco Attention Clinging Oven & Grill Cleaner Nyco At-Eze Oven & Grill Cleaner

Nyco Attention Clinging Oven & Grill Cleaner

Nyco At-Eze Oven & Grill Cleaner

High heat rubber gloves Heavy duty vinyl/rubber/PVC pron

Karcher Commercial Steamer

Kitchen Cleaning 101 – Appliances – Grill Tops and Griddles


We suggest cleaning the flattop grill with a grill brick and high alkaline degreaser. If you turn the heat on so the grill surface is hot but not too hot, it will be easier to clean. After eliminating the black stains (or most of them), pour lemon juice on the grill top. Local grocery stores sell the lemon juice by the gallon or 1⁄2 gallon. That will restore the shine on the metal and then you can simply apply a thin layer of cooking oil (vegetable oil) with a rag.

Grill cleaning brick

Lemon juice

Noble Griddle Grill Kleen’s easy application helps ensure effective cleaning by even the most inexperienced workers. For the best results, pre-heat the griddle to 300-350 degrees Fahrenheit. Then, simply pour Noble Griddle Grill Kleen over the grill plate, immediately spreading and scrubbing the liquid across the griddle’s top. Once finished scrubbing, scrape any remnants into the unit’s grease trap, turn off the griddle and rinse or wipe the surface with a damp cloth. It is also recommended that you apply a thin coating of liquid shortening after cleaning to help prevent rusting.

Noble Griddle Grill Kleen

Kitchen Cleaning 101 – Electrostatic Disinfecting

An additional service to offer as an upsell or as a value add is electrostatic disinfecting using Clorox Total 360 or other electrostatic equipment. Make sure you use the proper dilution of PurTabs for food contact surfaces or Clorox Anywhere in the Clorox machine. These chemicals are safe for use on food prep surfaces and do not require a potable water rinse after application. Be sure to remember with the PurTabs, there is a very specific dilution for food contact surfaces.

Pressure Washing 101


What is the need for pressure washing?

Facilities have exterior surfaces that become stained over time from airborne contaminates, pollutants, foot traffic and general use. The need to clean them is significant as these areas become unsightly.

Areas commonly pressure washed:

  • Concrete drives and sidewalks
  • Brick paver sidewalks and drives
  • Building exteriors and facades
  • Dumpsters and dumpster pads
  • Outdoor pool decks
  • Outdoor furniture such as picnic tables and chairs
  • Wooden outdoor furniture such as teak
  • Outdoor awnings
  • Garages and parking structures


  • Heated pressure washer. Heated pressure washers work better than cold water pressure washers in removing imbedded soils. Also, the amount of water flow and pressure from a pressure washer greatly contribute to overall performance of cleaning. We recommend a heated, 4000 psi, 4 gallons of water per minute pressure washer. These units can be trailer mounted or frame mounted on 4 wheels. We have negotiated special pricing on these units from

Pressure Pro whose product offering is found at

  • Trigger gun with a hot water lance
  • Quick connect spray nozzles of various spray angles including chemical spray tip
  • Replacement high-heat o-rings
  • 21 inch rotary surface cleaner
  • Pump-up sprayers
  • Caution cones
  • Small metal scrappers and wire brushes
  • 100 feet of garden hose
  • Water key (also known as a shutoff valve key)
  • Chemical spray injection kit
  • Tool box with various tools including a small pick for replacing o-rings
  • Loading ramps to assist loading and unloading (for a pressure washer on a frame with wheels)
  • Brooms and shovels
  • Squeegees to help direct water to the area or keep it from going into an area not desired
  • Heat resistant gloves, rubber boots and safety goggles
  • Diesel and regular gas cans with funnels


Most situations call for an alkaline degreaser (5 gallon pail) although some (such as pool decks and building facades or when addressing oil and rust stains) require a specialized chemical


Tools used for cleaning can vary slightly depending on the area being cleaned. Flat surfaces such as brick pavers or concrete sidewalks are typically done using the 21 inch surface cleaner while vertical surfaces such as building facades and patios on the building are done using the spray gun with lance. Choose the right technique and tools based on the material being cleaned. The specific chemical may also vary based on the surface being cleaned and the type of staining.

  • Unload all equipment being used.
  • Set up caution cones around areas being cleaning to reroute foot traffic and warn pedestrians of work being performed.
  • Sweep up loose debris including any trash and leaves.
  • Fill gas tanks on pressure washer.
  • Run garden hose from facility water spigot to equipment or fill water tank on trailer mounted unit.
  • Pre-spray areas being cleaned using pump-up sprayers or chemical feed and pressure washing gun with black chemical tip. Be sure to allow for sufficient dwell time for the chemical to do its job. It is advisable to pretreat any oil or rust staining prior to pre-spraying larger areas. Scrub that staining with wire brushes to hasten the removal.
  • Pressure wash areas with 21 inch surface cleaner or spray gun.
  • Broom or squeegee water into the storm drain.
  • Apply any sealer if requested. Most recommended sealers are water based so the areas do not need to be completely dry. However, it is important to ensure there is no standing water. Read the label instructions carefully before applying.


  • When using the spray gun and lance, make sure not to move the spray tip too close to the area being cleaned. It can leave permanent etch marks on the material. We suggest when using the gun and lance to only use the 25 or 40 degree tips.
  • Watch when cleaning near windows, glass, doors and other parts of the building. These areas may need to have the overspray cleaned off after cleaning.
  • Be careful of loose material or degradation of surface being cleaning. The pressure from the cleaning may remove part of the structure if these areas have been previously compromised. Bring this to the attention of the customer and use caution when cleaning these areas.
  • Research local regulations. Some governments require the collection of dirty water versus allowing the wash to flow down storm drains. This can greatly affect the costs and labor needed.
  •  Water barriers can be used to stop water from going into storm drains and create an area to collect the dirty water for disposal. Wet dry vacuums and 55 gallon drums are used to collect and remove the water if that is necessary.
  • A scissor lift or boom lift may be needed to clean high structures or building exteriors. Similarly, garage and parking structures may necessitate the use of both pressure washers and large ride- on auto scrubbers. This equipment can be rented and delivered to the customer location. Most of the companies renting these units can offer suggestions based on the facility and the type of work of the project. The cost of these rentals is significant so make sure to obtain rental quotes prior to providing any pricing to the customer.
  • Most projects require a minimum of two technicians.

Pressure Washing (Power Washing Alternative Using Chemicals)

  1. Assess the level of dirtiness: Examine the concrete surface to determine the degree of dirt, stains, or grime present. This assessment will help you determine the appropriate concentration of the cleaner to use.
  2. Gather the necessary equipment: Prepare the following tools and equipment before starting the cleaning process:
  • Protective gear: Put on safety gloves, goggles, and protective clothing to shield yourself from any potential splashes or contact with the cleaner.
  • Broom or brush: Use a stiff-bristled broom or brush to sweep away loose dirt and debris from the concrete surface.
    • Pressure washer: For optimal cleaning results, use a pressure washer with the following recommended tips:
    • 25-degree tip: Suitable for general cleaning of concrete surfaces.
    • 40-degree tip: Ideal for lighter cleaning or more delicate concrete surfaces.
  • Bucket: Have a bucket available for diluting the cleaner if necessary.
  • Scrub brush or deck brush: A scrub brush or deck brush with firm bristles will aid in agitating the cleaner and removing stubborn stains.
  • Water source: Ensure you have access to a water source, such as a hose, to rinse the surface.
  • Durawax citrus concrete cleaner: For overall cleaning of the concrete surface.
  • Durawax oil stain remover: Specifically designed for treating oil stains on concrete.
  • Siloxa-Tek 8500 Penetrating Water and Salt Repellent Transparent Concrete Sealer: Available at Lowe’s for effective and efficient concrete sealing.
  1. Dilute the cleaner: Read the instructions on the Durawax citrus concrete cleaner bottle to determine the recommended dilution ratios. The appropriate concentration depends on the level of dirtiness:
  • For light dirt or maintenance cleaning: Mix 1 part Durawax citrus concrete cleaner with 5 parts water.
  • For moderate dirt and stains: Mix 1 part Durawax citrus concrete cleaner with 3 parts water.
  • For heavy dirt and stubborn stains: Use the cleaner undiluted or mix 1 part Durawax citrus concrete cleaner with 1 part water.
  1. Pre-wet the concrete: Before applying the cleaner, dampen the concrete surface with water. This step helps the cleaner spread more evenly and minimizes absorption.
  2. Apply the citrus cleaner: Pour the diluted or undiluted Durawax citrus concrete cleaner onto the concrete surface, depending on the concentration determined in step 3. Ensure even coverage, especially in areas with stains or heavy dirt buildup. Use a brush or broom to spread the cleaner and work it into the surface. Allow the cleaner to sit on the concrete for a few minutes, allowing it time to break down dirt and grime.
  3. Agitate and scrub: Use a scrub brush or deck brush to agitate the cleaner on the concrete surface. Scrub vigorously in areas with stubborn stains or dirt. Focus on one manageable section at a time, ensuring thorough coverage.
  4. Treat oil stains with oil stain remover: Identify the oil stains on the concrete surface. Dilute the Durawax oil stain remover according to the product’s instructions. The recommended concentration for the oil stain remover is typically 1 part oil stain remover to 3 parts water.
  5. Apply the oil stain remover: Pour the diluted Durawax oil stain remover directly onto the oil stains. Make sure the stains are fully covered with the solution. Allow the oil stain remover to sit on the stains for the recommended time mentioned in the product instructions.
  6. Power wash the concrete: Connect the pressure washer to a water source and start the machine. Use either the 25-degree or 40-degree tip, depending on the intensity of cleaning required:
  • 25-degree tip: For more heavy-duty cleaning and tougher stains.
  • 40-degree tip: For lighter cleaning or more delicate concrete surfaces.
  • Maintain a distance of approximately 12 to 18 inches between the nozzle and the concrete. Adjust the pressure settings according to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
  1. Rinse the concrete: After power washing, thoroughly rinse the concrete with clean water. Start from the highest point of the concrete and work your way down, ensuring complete removal of the cleaner, oil stain remover, and dislodged dirt.
  2. Apply Siloxa-Tek 8500 Penetrating Water and Salt Repellent Transparent Concrete Sealer: Once the concrete is clean and dry, check the weather conditions. Make sure there is no rain in the forecast for the next 24 to 48 hours. Apply the Siloxa-Tek 8500 sealer according to the product instructions. Typically, you will pour the sealer into a pump sprayer or use a brush or roller to apply an even coat of sealer onto the concrete surface. Ensure complete coverage, avoiding puddling or excessive application. Allow the sealer to penetrate the concrete for the recommended time mentioned in the product instructions. Keep the surface free from foot traffic or water for the specified duration.
  3. Post-cleaning care: Once the sealer is dry and cured, you can use the concrete surface as desired. Regular maintenance may include periodic reapplication of the Siloxa-Tek 8500 sealer, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Remember to always follow the specific instructions provided by Durawax, Siloxa-Tek, and any other product manufacturers for their respective cleaners and sealers, as different products may have slightly different usage guidelines.


Performing a Demonstration

  1. When you book a demonstration with a potential customer be precise as to what service you are demonstrating. You may want to be prepared to demonstrate related services too, i.e. if the demonstration is guest room carpet cleaning, be prepared for carpet stain removal, upholstery/drapery cleaning and or malodor handling.

    Here are some guidelines:

    Only take into the property what you need. Even if you are prepared for additional services, leave other supplies and equipment in the van. Too much “stuff” can make you appear disorganized and inefficient. Don’t take an army with you. Take only the technician(s) you need to do the demo.Observe your surroundings from the moment you enter the property to identify any potential needs. Invite the contact person to observe the process. If he/she cannot stay, perhaps do half the area so it is obvious the “before” and “after”. We encourage you to take “before”, “during” and “after” pictures for additional support. After the contact person has seen the process/outcome, mention any of the other needs you have noticed and offer to further the demonstration with such services as red stain removal, bleach stains, and burns in carpet. If accepted, then return to the vehicle to obtain the necessary items to perform the process.

    Keep track of how long it takes to perform the work. This information could be especially important when providing a proposal. Measure out the entire property while you are there. This will avoid a separate appointment in the future. Leave samples of the water that you extracted out of the materials cleaned. Confirm that your contact is a decision maker. If he/she is not, introduce yourself and company to that person while on the property.

    CAUTION: Be aware of the chemical and equipment that you bring to a demonstration. Sometimes the potential customer is not looking for you to do the project, but rather to educate them to do it themselves! If you have to use a non Renue Systems private labeled chemical, mix the chemical in your truck or place product needed into a nondescript bottle and then bring it into the hotel. Make sure to label the product after or pour it back into the original container.



  1. Notes

    1. Assumes bathroom floor is not being done at the same time as any other service in the guestroom.
    2. Carpet Open Space includes banquet rooms, hallways and other large spaces where movement of equipment is not required.
    3. Tile & Grout Open Space includes the lobby and any other large spaces where movement of equipment is not required. Kitchen space takes longer.
    4. These are not requirements, but rather achievable guidelines based on our history of experienced technicians.
    5. This productivity assumes that all rooms are in a contiguous fashion and accounts for the necessary stops to fill and empty the machines.
    6. New technicians are 25-50% less productive than experienced ones.
    7. Suites and two bedroom units take approx. 33% longer to complete than a standard room.
    8. An 8 hour shift is approx. 6.5-7 hours of actual work time plus breaks and set up / tear town down times. Drive time to and from property is extra. Assumes rooms are in a consecutive order.
    9. Specialty stain removal like red wine, hair dye, etc. are not accounted for in these guidelines.
    10. Drapes does NOT include sheers. Add additional time if sheers are included at the same time as drapes.
  1. What is a natural stone?

    “Natural Stone” refers to a number of stones that are quarried from the earth, used over many thousands of years as building materials and decorative enhancements. These products include: Granite, Marble, Limestone, Travertine, Slate, Quartzite, Sandstone, Adoquin, Onyx and others.

    Geology of Stone

    The Rock Cycle

    Igneous rock

    Metamorphic Rock Sedimentary Rock

    There are very few rocks that go directly from igneous to metamorphic. Serpentine is one of them.

    The Three Basic Rock Types

    • Igneous – is formed from solidified molten matter or magmas.
    • Sedimentary – is formed by the disintegration of other rocks, soil and organic matter such as sea organisms, shells, plants and animals deposited in seas and lakes in layers over thousands and millions of years.
    • Metamorphic – is formed from igneous and/or sedimentary rock subjected to heat, pressure and chemical reactions, causing it to change into a more compact and crystalline form.

    Rocks do not remain the same forever. They are broken down by:

    o Wind

    o Temperature changes

    o Water and ice

    Eventually they break up into pebbles, sand and mud, are washed into rivers where they flow to lakes and seas and settle into deposits.

    Metamorphic rocks form from heat and pressure changing the original or parent rock into a completely new rock. The parent rock can be either sedimentary, igneous, or even another metamorphic rock. … Temperature increases can be caused by layers of sediments being buried deeper and deeper under the surface of the Earth.

    The action of water, by dissolving and re-depositing, can also result in the formation of new metamorphic minerals. Examples are:

     Limestone into Marble

     Sandstone into Quartzite

     Shale into Slate

     Coal into Anthracite

    Methods of Stone Identification

    ✔ Ask someone

    ✔ Visual identification

    ✔ Mechanical test

    ✔ Chemical test

     Ask someone

    There is a good chance your customer knows what type of stone their flooring or countertops are made from but does not trust this to be certain. Therefore, it is best to do your own validation.

    Visual identification Granite: Can have small and large shiny speckles of crystals present. Some granite will even have veining but that is less common. Varying colors.

Absolute Black Granite: Very common in foyers, bathrooms, elevators and other areas with heavy foot traffic.

Limestone: Can contain traces of iron, magnesium and fossils or shell formations. Little to no veining. Most common in earth tone colors.

Travertine: Similar to limestone but more noticeable holes and epoxy fill.

Marble: Usually there is a lot of veining present throughout the stone. Comes in a wide variety of colors.

Mechanical test

The Scratch test. Stones also have varying degrees of hardness. Since granite is difficult to scratch, if a knife or razor blade edge is run across the surface it will not scratch while marble and limestone will. Please note that since both tests may damage the surface, the scratch test should be done in an inconspicuous area.

The Mohs Scale of Mineral Hardness

In 1812 the Mohs scale of mineral hardness was devised by the German mineralogist Frederich Mohs who selected the ten minerals below because they were common or readily available. The scale is not a linear scale but somewhat arbitrary. A mineral with a higher Mohs value can scratch an item with a lower Mohs value but not the other way around. 1 – softest to 10 – hardest

  1. Talc (soapstone)
  2. Gypsum
  3. Calcite (most marbles)
  4. Fluorite
  5. Apatite
  6. Feldspar
  7. Quartz (granite)
  8. Topaz
  9. Corundum
  10. Diamond

    Chemical test

    The Acid test. Place a small amount of an acid (white vinegar is fine or an acid tile and grout cleaner) on the stone and observe. If the stone is acid sensitive, a reaction will take place after a minute or two. Carbon dioxide gas will be given off – noticed by a fizzing action on the stone. If the tile was polished, an “etch” or dull spot will be left in its place. Make sure that the stone is free of topical coatings before doing the test. A quick scratch test should indicate a topical coating or not. Also, perform this test in an inconspicuous area like under a rug or towards a wall away from main traffic areas.

Types of natural stone


Marble is metamorphic – meaning it is formed by heat and pressure. Its characteristics include a wide variety and mixture of colors. The veins found in marble are created by the interaction of mineral deposits with the geological activity. Marble can take a high polish due to its hard surface.


Limestone is sedimentary – meaning it is formed by the action of water and great pressure. Its characteristic colors include neutrals, off-white, beige, tan, taupe, light blue and gray. The look of limestone is created by the interaction of sediment deposits and shells with geological activity. Limestone finishes are usually honed and typically do not hold a high polish.


Travertine is sedimentary – meaning it is formed by the action of water, pressure and heat. Its characteristic colors include neutrals, off-white, beige, tan and yellow. The look of travertine is created by the interaction of gas, shells and water with geological activity. Travertine finishes are both honed and un-honed. The un-honed finished travertine will mostly be used on walls and easily identified by the natural holes within the stone. Travertine on floors will typically have those same holes filled with an epoxy to smooth the surface. Travertine finishes will hold a polish but not as long as marble.


Granite is igneous – meaning it is formed by extreme heat and volcanic action. Its characteristic colors include a wide variety and mixes of color. Granite can take a high polish and typically holds that polish for a longer time vs. other natural stones.


Slate is metamorphic – meaning it is formed under great pressure from sediment. It has a wide variety of characteristic colors that often vary widely. Slate has a natural cleft finish. We do not polish slate. We can only clean it and seal it.

Serpentine or “green marble”

Serpentinite is metamorphic that is mostly composed of serpentine group minerals. Serpentine group minerals antigorite, lizardite, brucite, chrysotile and asbestos are produced by the hydrous alteration of ultramafic rocks. These are igneous rocks that are composed of olivine and pyroxene (peridotite, pyroxenite). Serpentines are quarried all over the world with various amounts and types of minerals some of which are acid resistant which can make polishing difficult.


Onyx is a unique natural stone that originates from dripstone deposits of limestone caves. When water drips from stalactites and stalagmites within these caves and evaporates a compound called calcium carbonate is left behind. This causes the stone’s colorful veins, swirls and patterns that are unique to onyx. Onyx is crystalline stone and often translucent – which means it allows for light to pass through. The degree of translucency varies among onyx slabs and is dependent on the color, thickness and surface finish. A unique feat, onyx will recrystallize in time, often enhancing translucency as a result. Onyx typically comes in a wide array of yellow hues due to the presence of iron deposits, but other common colors are green, white, orange, gold, pink and brown.


Soapstone (also known as steatite or soaprock) is a talc-schist, a type of metamorphic rock. It is composed largely of the magnesium rich mineral talc. Soapstone is an excellent choice for wet spaces such as bathrooms and sauna rooms because it does not absorb water and is not slippery, even when wet. Greyish green in color. Not typically polished but can be cleaned using normal methods.


Terrazzo is a manmade resin-based tile. Terrazzo floors can be cement-based or epoxy based. Very common in airports, hospitals and schools. Can be polished similar to marbles.

Be on the lookout for me!

What am I you ask? I am a porcelain tile floor that looks just like a marble floor. One way you can tell that I am an imposter is that my gloss looks too perfectly even in high traffic areas but do not trust just your eyes. Test me! Try scratching the tile. Porcelain is almost scratch resistant. Try the acid test. Porcelain is acid resistant. See any staining? No staining on porcelain tile and that is why we make our toilets out of porcelain. 

  1. Types of Finishes on natural stone

    Polished: Very smooth with medium to high light reflection. Lowest exposed surface area resulting in low stain risk.

    Honed: Smooth with medium to no light reflection. Higher area of exposed surface with increased risk of staining.

    Textured: Uneven surface with no light reflection. Greatest amount of exposed surface area with very high risk of staining.

    Methods of Polishing Stone Floors

    There are four basic methods used today to create a shine on natural stone floors: 1) Buffing with polishing powders and compounds,

    2) Grinding and honing with diamond abrasives,

    3) Crystallization (or recrystallizing) and

    4) Applying sacrificial coatings like waxes.

    Each method may not be effective on every stone type, and the use of more than one may be necessary.

    Polishing Powders and Compounds are made from fine grains of aluminum, cerium or tin oxide abrasive powders that are buffed into the surface of the stone to create the shine. This process is similar to honing with diamonds except that the powder is a much finer abrasive. These chemicals include oxalic acid or oxalate to create a reaction similar to crystallization. The powder is put on the surface and wet with water to make a paste or slurry that is buffed into the stone with a 175 rpm weighted floor machine, often referred to as a swing or rotary machine, and a hogs hair or white pad.

    Grinding with diamond abrasives is done by mechanically grinding the surface of the stone with various grits of industrial grade diamonds that are usually in three to four inch diameter pads or discs. Six to nine discs are placed on the bottom of a floor machine drive plate with pad and held on with Velcro. A low speed (175 rpm) floor machine is used to drive the plate and refine and hone the stone surface with the diamonds to remove scratches. The process is repeated with finer and finer grits of diamonds until a mechanical shine is achieved.

    Sacrificial coatings are referred to as “waxing” or “coating” the surface to create an artificial shine. A liquid form of wax, acrylic, urethane or other polymer is applied or “coated” onto the surface with a mop, roller or sprayer. Some are left as applied and others must be “buffed out” to achieve the shine. This is generally done with a high speed burnishing floor machine and fiber pads. This process is not recommended for porous stone like a natural stone floor. It is also not recommended for some non-porous floors like ceramic and porcelain floors.

    Crystallization is a process in which a chemical called fluorosilicate is sprayed onto the stone and buffed in with steel wool pads creating new, glassy like, crystals that form on the surface. A standard 175 rpm floor machine creates the heat and friction needed to form and polish the crystals.

    Advantages and Disadvantages of Polishing Methods

    The following pros and cons are presented from the viewpoint that polished marble, granite and limestone are chosen for use on floors because of their “natural” appearance and beauty. Careful consideration is also given to their slip resistance as well. When cost is shown as an advantage or disadvantage, it is only to compare one method vs. others. Most often the owner expects the cost of maintaining natural stone floors to be higher than that of other resilient floors.

    Polishing Powders and Compounds


    1. Gives a natural appearance with a high gloss and clarity.
    2. Produces a relatively durable finish.
    3. Never requires stripping.
    4. Can be applied with a standard low speed weighted floor machine. 5. Can remove fine scratches.
    5. Only done periodically, not daily or weekly.


    1. A messy process, requiring additional work to protect areas and clean up.
    2. Requires a higher skillset.
    3. Requires equipment (i.e., a floor machine, chemicals, wet/dry vac, mop, mop bucket, etc.).

    Grinding with Diamonds


    1. The most natural method.
    2. Very durable, long lasting finish.
    3. Never requires stripping.
      1. Removes all scratches.
      2. Works well on marble and granite.
    4. Disadvantages:

      1. Is time consuming and requires the highest level of skill.
      2. Highest cost method in both material and labor.
      3. The final polish and clarity vary depending on the stone and generally have to be polished as a final step by using powder, polish or compound.



      1. Most janitorial maintenance personnel are familiar with this method. 2. Can be lowest cost method if not concerned about the appearance. 3. Generally provides good slip resistance.


      1. Does not provide a natural appearance.
      2. Most coatings do not adhere well to polished stone or non-porous stones like ceramic or porcelain.
      3. Scuffs easily and dulls rapidly.
      4. Requires daily buffing or burnishing. High maintenance floors.
      5. Requires periodic stripping that is messy and can damage the stone. 6. Blocks the pores of the stone which, coupled with stripping, can cause spalling. 7. Is a high cost method if done properly to maintain the best possible shine.



      1. Gives a natural appearance with a high gloss and sheen.
      2. Very durable, long lasting finish.
      3. Easy to use and does not require any special skills.
      4. Very clean with little to no mess.
      5. Removes fine scratches and polishes heavy scratches.
      6. Do not have to polish the entire floor. Can “touch-up” high traffic areas. 7. Can be applied with a standard low speed floor machine.
      7. Cost effective.


      1. Can discolor or darken some light colored grout.
      2. Can cause a slight yellowing in some stones if moisture is present. 3. Has limited effect on some granites.
      3. Requires periodic stripping.
      4. Scuffs are caused by wax.
      5. Overuse produces a non-responsive floor.

      7. Quick fix surface shine only.

  1. Selecting the Right Method

    After you complete your Job Site Survey, you can move forward with a specific restoration program. In the case of a calcium based stone such as limestone, marble, travertine, terrazzo or other when diamond grinding is not needed (there are no deep scratches), Polishing Powder (with Potassium Oxalate) is an excellent choice but can be difficult to work with due to the unstable conditions caused by airborne and surface acids in the product. The product of choice is Renue Polishing Compound / Majestic Stone Polishing Compound / Stone Medic all containing Aluminum Oxide. Using just one of these polishing compounds is equivalent to a 1500-3000 grit diamond that is easy to maintain.

    The only sure method of polishing all colors of granite floors is by refining with diamond abrasives and/or polishing powders. A chemical “spray and buff” method is available for maintaining the shine on dark colored granite. Fortunately, because granite is a hard stone

    on Mohs scale and acid resistant, and if the factory shine was done correctly, the need to polish it is very rare. A daily dust and damp mopping is all that is needed to maintain the finish. We strongly suggest only crystallizing or using polishing compounds when maintaining granite due to the hardness of the stone and how time consuming it is to diamond hone granite. Only if severely scratched granite do we recommend diamond honing. The use of heavy weights and weighted pad drivers is also recommended when diamond honing granite floors.

    Marble crystallization is a quick fix process that gives immediate results. However, it cannot be left to sit on the floor or etching will occur. Also, due to its wax content every so often the crystallized cap must be stripped off with a chemical or grinding process. No matter which method is used, it is highly recommended that the process be done on a regular frequency that does not allow the finish to go dull. Once the shine is gone, it takes three to four times longer to bring it back. The frequency will be determined by how well daily maintenance is performed and adhered to and how much the floor is walked on.

    Keep in mind when diamond honing floors, not all the flooring will need the same level of diamond honing. High traffic areas tend to have more scratching and deeper scratching than lower trafficked areas located near the walls or not walked on frequently. Use the 2×4 method when polishing at the base of the walls.

Diamonds and Grits

Common natural stones include the following material: marble, granite, travertine, limestone and sandstone.

Believe it or not, natural stones are relatively soft stones. Over time, the surface of these stones on floors can become scratched and abraded from foot traffic causing them to lose their original shine. The scratches on the surface of the stones also cause light rays to refract in all directions adding to the dull appearance of the floor. Countertops become dirty, scratch and sometimes etch due to spills that have a high acid content. Walls and showers also become dirty, build up hard water stains and soap scum and collect pollutants within the air. All of these issues are correctable through our professional restoration services.

The level of service the natural stone requires depends greatly on the type of stone and its condition. Our approach is a very traditional one that includes the use of diamond infused pads and discs.

Diamond disks on the left and diamond pads on the right

Since a diamond is the hardest stone known, we use pads and discs to remove a microscopic surface layer of the stone to eliminate the underlying scratches. And yes, they are real diamonds! Natural stone tiles are different than man-made tiles in that they are completely the same design and composition from the surface of stone to the bottom. That is why scratches can be removed without changing the appearance of the stone. The diamonds discs and pads used are constructed of very small diamond particles that are suspended within the plastic disc or pad. These pads are placed on the bottom of a rotary machine which then moves them across the surface of the stone, removing the scratches. The key to the entire process is choosing the right grit to hone the surface. It is a multistep process starting at a lower grit and ending with a higher one. A grit is a measure of abrasiveness. A 50 grit diamond is a very aggressive grit, whereas a 1500 grit is a very fine grit. The depth of the scratch on the surface of the stone determines the right grit needed to start the restoration process and the one needed to finish. Some stones do not require a diamond honing at all. They may simply require a polishing compound. 

How Is Grit Measured? Grit size is the number of holes present in a square inch of mesh. For example:

60 grit has 60 holes in a square inch mesh

400 grit has 400 holes per square inch.

In order to fit 400 holes in a square inch the holes must be much smaller or “finer”

Grit Size-

400 Grit = 400 holes per square inch

Typical Use Of The Usual Grits

Lippage removal Coarser than 50 grit

50/60 grit Stock Removal

100/120 grit Stock Removal

200/220 grit Transition

400 grit Hone

800 grit Start to Polish

1500/1800 grit Low Polish

3000/3500 grit Medium Polish


  • 175 RPM floor machine. Also commonly referred to as buffer, swing or rotary machine
  • Bucket and rags
  • Trigger sprayer or pump-up sprayer
  • Weighted pad driver
  • Pad driver (regular)
  • Polishing compounds
  • Diamond discs
  • White buffing pads or hogs hair pads
  • Steel wool pads
  • Extension cords
  • Squeegee with long broom handle
  • Wet floor sign or orange caution cones
  • Tape & Drape, Easy Mask or plastic sheeting for masking of areas ● Wet/Dry vac., hoses and wands for wet/dry vac., mop, mop bucket, sponges, rags, etc.

Procedure for floor prep

  • First, confirm there are no topical coatings on the floor like wax. If wax is present, strip the floor using the same process as for VCT (vinyl composite tile) ● Dust mop floors
  • Apply tape and drape to protect the base of all walls, fixed furniture, exposed metals, glass and any other vertical surface that may be adversely affected by the chemicals

Procedure for floor restoration

Procedure for lippage on floors- Start at 30 or 50 grit diamonds. Grind floor at a rate of 30-50 sq. ft. per technician hour. Move the swing machine around the area of lippage so that you are grinding the floor from different directions. Continue until the section of floor is flat and lippage has been removed. Continue to refine the floors using a 100/200 grit all the way up to higher grits. Finally, polish.

Procedure for floors with medium to deep scratches- Same as above but start at 60 or 100 grit. Grind floor at a rate of 20-25 sq. ft. per technician hour. Continue to refine the floors at 200 grit all the way up to higher grits. Finally, polish.

Procedure for floors with light to medium scratches- Same as above but start at 400 grit. Grind floor at a rate of 30-40 sq. ft. per technician hour. Continue to refine the floors at 600 grit all the way up to higher grits. Finally, polish.

Procedure for floors with light scratches to dull spots- This can usually be achieved by simply putting a polishing compound or crystallizer on the floor and buffing with white or hogs hair pad. Sometimes you may need to use some diamonds on the floor first like 800/1500/3000 grit first. Production rate of 50-100 sq. ft. per technician hour.

Procedure for countertops and stairs- Most require a medium scratch grinding and honing going from 120 grit to 3500 grit. Production rates are 6-8 sq. ft. per technician hour.

Procedure for Crystallizing or Re-Crystallizing- Crystallizer is a wax/acid formulation. Do not let any chemical settle on the floor. BUFF IMMEDIATELY.

Procedure for Marble, Travertine and Terrazzo Floor Diamond Honing and Polishing

Step 1: Confirm there are no topical coatings like wax. Do all floor prep including Tape & Drape to protect walls, carpet, metal trim, glass and other areas you do not want slurry and polish to get onto. Set up caution cones and signs in the areas you will be working. Turn all lighting in the area to its maximum.

Step 2: Fill any holes with epoxy fill material. Make sure to clean and dry holes first to ensure proper bonding of material. Read instructions carefully and be sure to allow for suggested cure times. If no hole fill is needed, skip to step 3.

Step 3: Determine level of scratching so that you can select what grit of diamonds to begin with. Remember, it is best to try higher grits first (800, 1500 and 3000) to minimize the amount of time and labor needed for restoring the floor. If you are not sure what diamond grit to use try doing a test polishing from start to finish to best determine the course of action for that section of the floor. Also, you may need to use different levels of grits on different sections of the floor. An example is the level of restoration needed in high traffic areas is higher than the level of restoration needed on areas of the floor that have less foot traffic.

Step 4: Set up your 175 RPM rotary machine with pad driver, weights or weighted pad driver (if needed), white pad and first selection of diamond discs around the outside edge of your white pad. Fill the tank with water. Select a section of floor of approximately 40 square feet (4 square meters). Lightly wet the area of the floor by pulling and releasing the lever on the water tank. Begin the honing process by slowly making side to side passes. Change direction or position to make sure you are fully honing each section of the floor by putting a full scratch pattern into the stone. Clean excess slurry by vacuuming with your wet dry vacuum. Check the results by squeegeeing that section of the floor. If you are happy with the results move to the next level of diamond grits. Repeat this process until you have completed all levels of diamond honing. If you are not happy with the results, you may need to spend more time on that section of the floor or change to a lower grit of diamond discs if you can still see or feel any scratches. Clean that section of

the floor. Note that you can choose to refine that section of floor fully or move to another section of the floor to diamond hone, leaving your final polishing step as the last step of the process on the entire floor.

Step 5: Lightly wet the area of the floor and place a ¼ to ½ cup of your polishing compound on the floor. Place a hogs hair or (less preferably) white pad on the bottom of your 175 RPM rotary machine. Using a weighted machine or weighted pad driver will improve results. Place the machine over the polishing compound and release a small amount of water onto the area. Slowly move the machine from side-to-side 6-8 passes. The consistency of the slurry should be fluid enough to move around. If the slurry becomes too dry then just add some water. After you have worked the area sufficiently, check your results by squeegeeing back the slurry. Make sure you have a consistent shine throughout the area. If not, keep polishing. If so, clean the floor by vacuuming off the slurry and rinse with plenty of clean water paying close attention to removing any polishing compound built up within the grout lines.

If you have areas of the floor that have both a granite and marble mix, use granite diamonds. Using marble diamonds will damage the granite but conversely the granite diamonds will not damage the marble. Also, you may want to select a polishing compound that works for both marble and granite. Check with the manufacturer to confirm. Also, for marble floors that may have small areas of granite mixed in and where the granite is in relatively good shape, you can simply tape the granite areas off so you will not need to worry about what method or products to use. Below is a picture of marble flooring with black granite inlay.

Procedure for Granite Polishing

Pretty much the same process as marble above with the following caveats: ● Most granite can be polished simply by crystallizing. It is the fastest and most cost effective way to enhance the gloss on granite flooring.

  • It is necessary to use weights and a weighted pad driver on a 175 RPM floor machine if diamond honing.
  • Process of diamond honing is much slower vs. marble due to the hardness of granite vs. marble.
  • It is necessary to use special diamonds for granite as well as polishing compounds made for safe use on granite. For black granite, there is a darkening enhancer that can be added to your crystallizer or polishing compound.
  • You can also use a high speed buffer (2000+ RPM) with a white pad to improve the results of the polishing compound or crystallizer on granite flooring.

Procedure for Re-Crystallization on Granite and Marble

Crystallizer is a wax/acid formulation.

Do not let any chemical settle on the floor. BUFF IMMEDIATELY

Step 1: Make sure you do not have any topical coatings (wax) present. If you do, you must completely strip the floor first of any coating and allow it to dry. It is a similar process to stripping a VCT floor.

Step 2: Preparation- Clean floors by dust mopping and wet mopping. Mask off walls, floors, carpet and other areas that may be damaged by water and crystallizer.

Step 3: Use a 175 rpm weighted floor machine (140 lbs) and #00 or #0 steel wool pad. Fill a trigger bottle with the chosen Crystallizer, working a 3 x 3 area – spray a light coating of crystallizer and buff until dry. Keep the area moist while buffing with Crystallizer. Rotate in four sections. Blend until desired shine is achieved. Turn the steel wool pad over when it becomes too wet or loaded with product. (200-300 square feet or 20-30 square meters). One steel wool pad covers 500-600 square feet (50-60 square meters) before replacement.

Production rates expected by an experienced technician: Crystallizer (Marble) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450-550 square feet (45-55 square meters)./hour

Maintain with neutral Stone Soap.

NOTE: Over time, a heavily crystalized floor forms a cap or coat on the surface requiring you to repeat step #1 to remove the wax build up. This is noticeable by a color change in the stone such as turning yellow or darkening.

Procedure for marble countertops, walls and staircases with a hand polisher/grinder

Step 1: Obtain a handheld variable speed hand grinder, Velcro backed diamond pad holder, flexible 5” diamond discs, spray bottle, rags, Tape & Drape, sponges, handheld squeegee and wet dry vacuum.

Step 2: Mask off all areas with Tape & Drape. Set up tarps on floors to protect areas from slurry spills.

Step 3: Perform usual assessment to determine what level of diamond grit to begin with. Step 4: Wet the area. Place the diamond pad flat on the surface and turn the power switch on. Use initial speed of low-high or medium low.

Step 5: Begin honing. Keep a steady downward pressure atop of the hand grinder and move slowly in a circular pattern. Do NOT press too hard – allow the diamonds to do the work for you. Continue grinding and honing until scratches and defects are removed. Check results by using a squeegee to pull back the slurry.

Step 6: Continue with different levels of diamond grits until desired finish is achieved. Step 7: Polish with polishing compound. You will need to cut a white pad or hogs hair pad to fit the pad holder.

Step 8: Clean the stone and then seal with an impregnator if requested.

For staircases, address the tread only and not the riser. The riser is never walked on so you can simply clean it. If it does have damage then you may need to treat with the process above in a vertical fashion.

For walls, the process is usually done by using a polishing compound. Because the walls are not scratched like a floor, no diamond honing should be necessary. A good cleaning is recommended first. Walls are time consuming and a lot messier than horizontal surfaces.

Stain Removal Guide

    1. Prepare the poultice. If a powder is to be used, pre-mix

      For instructions on how to apply a poultice see information at bottom of the guide ● To learn more about poultice see information at bottom of the guide ● For unknown stains see information at the bottom of guide

      • Some of the stain removal processes below may also require diamond grinding and honing to remove.



      Tape residue, cellophane, stickers, etc.


      Sticky residue on surface of stone. Some tape residues, especially duct tape can penetrate below the surface of the stone and can be very difficult to remove.


      1. Peel off any remaining tape, use a very sharp razor blade and be careful not to scratch the surface of the stone.
      2. The remaining sticky residue can usually be removed with a rag and acetone. Pour the acetone on a clean white rag and rub the area until all of the sticky residue is gone.
      3. If the adhesive has left a stain, prepare a poultice of diatomaceous earth with mineral spirits, being careful to follow directions for user and label precautions.



      There are literally hundreds of beers. The beers that seem to be more of a problem with stains are the dark beers. Light colored countertops are very susceptible to dark beer staining.

      Problem: The sugars and proteins in the beer can cause a very dark stain on light colored stones. 35


      1. Clean the entire area thoroughly with water and a mild dish detergent. Allow the water and soap to soak into the stone for several minutes. Lightly agitate the area and remove excess water with a dry towel. Rinse the area with clear water.
      2. If the above cleaning procedure does not remove the beer stain, then try a stronger cleaner such as ammonia and water.
      3. If the stone is still stained prepare a poultice of diatomaceous earth with 30-50 % hydrogen peroxide.

      Several poultices may need to be applied



      Most acne creams on the market today contain Benzyl Peroxide which is a bleaching agent.


      Acne creams which contain dyes can cause staining. These dyes are usually beige to brown in color.


      1. Thoroughly clean the area with water and a mild detergent.
      2. Once the area has dried, take some acetone on a clean white rag and rub the stained area, carefully following label directions and precautions.
      3. If the acetone doesn’t work, poultice the area with diatomaceous earth and 30-50% hydrogen peroxide.



      Common household bleach


      Bleach contains sodium hypochlorite, which is an acid and can etch soft marbles. It may also lighten certain sedimentary type stones like shell stone and coquina.


      1. Flood the area with clean water to remove any excess bleach.
      2. If the stone is etched then repolish the area with a polishing powder such as aluminum oxide and oxalic acid. I recommend using a pre-packaged powder. Apply a small amount of powder, add some water and rub the area into a slurry with a white buffing pad.
      3. If the stone has lightened there is very little that can be done. A light application of linseed oil may cosmetically darken the area to help hide the discoloration.


      Types: Human and animal blood and raw meats prepared on a marble countertop can cause blood staining


      Blood contains salts and proteins; if it is cleaned while still fresh it will usually not stain. If allowed to dry, blood stains can be very difficult to remove.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild dish detergent.
      2. Prepare a solution of 50% household ammonia and water. Apply this solution and allow to sit for several minutes. Gently scrub the area and rinse with cold clear water.
      3. If stain is still present, poultice with diatomaceous earth and ammonia. 37



      Hundreds of types of candies-All containing sugar and various dyes. Problem:

      Several candies contain dyes; red dye especially can be very difficult to remove. Solution:

      1. Scrape remaining candy from surface.
      2. Clean area with acetone and a clean white cloth.
      3. If acetone doesn’t work, poultice with diatomaceous earth with mineral spirits



      Barbecue, steak, spaghetti and ketchup.


      These sauces contain tomato, tannin, oil and dyes. The dyes will leave a red to brown stain. The oil will penetrate the stone and darken it.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent.
      2. If stain is still present, clean the area with an alkaline degreaser. Mix with water according to directions and let solution stand on stained area for several minutes. Agitate with a cloth and rinse with clean water.
      3. If stain is still not removed then use diatomaceous earth and an alkaline degreaser. A second poultice may be required using diatomaceous earth and a solvent such as mineral spirits or commercial paint remover if there is dye present.



      Chewing gum, tree gum (sap), etc.


      Gum rarely stains stone surfaces but can be very difficult to remove from honed and rough textures surfaces.


      1. Do not try to scrape gum off surface; this only makes more of a mess. Freeze the gum using an aerosol gum freeze, available at most janitorial supply houses. Spray the gum for several seconds then chip the gum with a scrapper or putty knife. This should remove most of the gum.
      2. If there is any gum residue still remaining apply a solvent cleaner such as a dry spotter, also available at most janitorial supply houses.



      Water stains from irrigation systems, faucets, bathroom fixtures, shower walls, etc. Problem:

      The minerals in water will leave mineral deposits which can appear as a white haze or even large deposits of crust like minerals.


      1. If deposits are large try, scraping off excess deposits with a sharp razor blade.
      2. Next apply a solution of weak phosphoric acid and agitate the area applying more acid as needed. NOTE: This will etch all marble surfaces, so plan on re-finishing the marble.

       3.Re-hone and polish the stone if necessary.

      Some mineral deposits will be embedded below the surface of the stone and may cause spalling. If this is the case, replacement of the damaged stone is the only alternative.



      Black rubber, neoprene


      Rubber can leave a black streak mark on surface of stone. These marks rarely stain but can be difficult to remove from rough textured stones and concrete.


      1. Clean with acetone and a clean white rag. On textured stone try using a green scrub pad with acetone.
      2. If acetone doesn’t work, then try another solvent such as dry spotter, available at janitorial supply.



      Candy, cocoa, ice cream


      Can leave brown stains in light color marbles.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent.
      2. If stain is still present, clean with ammonia and water. Let solution sit on stained area for several minutes. Remove excess solution and rinse with clear cold water.
      3. If above procedures fail, poultice with diatomaceous earth and ammonia. Difficult to remove chocolate stains may require poulticing with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.


      Types: Cigarette, hot irons, propane etc.


      Cigarette and cigar burns will leave a yellow nicotine stain which can be difficult to remove. Cigarette burns can also melt the stone and in the case of granite may cause spalling.


      1. If stone is melted or spalled, re-honing and polishing will be necessary.
      2. If a yellow nicotine stain is the problem, then poultice with diatomaceous earth with 35% hydrogen peroxide.
      3. If several hydrogen peroxide poultices do not work, try poulticing with diatomaceous earth and mineral spirits.


      Types:  Instant coffee, hot tea and iced tea


      Coffee and tea both contain tannin which can leave a yellow to brown stain. If left on stone long enough the stain can penetrate deeply and be nearly impossible to remove. If the concentration of coffee or tea is strong enough it can also etch the surface of polished marble.


      1. Pour 35% hydrogen peroxide directly on the stain and add a few drops of ammonia. Leave until bubbling stops.

      Caution: Do not use ammonia only. Ammonia can permanently set the stain.

      1. If above procedure does not remove stain then poultice with diatomaceous earth and 35% hydrogen peroxide.
      2. If all else fails, try poulticing with diatomaceous earth and mineral spirits.



      Chicken or duck


      Eggs contain a protein called albumin which can leave a yellow stain. Solution:

      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent of stone soap. Caution: Do not use hot water, it can set the stain.
      2. If stain still remains, poultice with diatomaceous earth and 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.



      Apples, pears, oranges, lemon, lime, grapefruit and their juices


      The acids in some fruits, especially lemon will etch polished marble. The sugars in these fruits will turn yellow or brown if allowed to sit too long.


      1. If the surface is etched, re-polish using Stone Medic MPC Marble Polishing Compound. If the etching is very deep, re-honing may be necessary.
      1. If the fruit has left a stain then clean the area with cold water and a mild detergent.
      2. If stain still remains poultice with diatomaceous earth and 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.



      Cherry, grape, blueberry, blackberry, cranberry, raspberry, strawberry and their juices Problem:

      All these fruits contain dyes which can be very difficult to remove.


      1. Clean area with cold water

      Caution: Do not use soap; it can set the stain.

      1. If stain still remains poultice with diatomaceous earth and 20% hydrogen peroxide. 3. If stain is still not removed, poultice with diatomaceous earth and mineral spirits.



      Spray and liquid furniture polishes


      Oils, dyes, waxes and silicones can cause staining. The darker polishes (e.g., walnut) can permanently stain the stone.


      1. Clean with acetone and a clean white rag. Allow acetone to sit on stain area a few minutes and blot remaining acetone with a clean rag.
      1. If stain is still present, poultice with diatomaceous earth and mineral spirits or commercial paint remover.



      Super glue, hot glue, epoxy resin, plastic model cement

      Problem: These types of glues will rarely stain. The glues are usually hard to remove from the surface.


      1. On smooth surface scrape glue with a sharp razor blade. Be careful not to scratch the surface.
      2. Any remaining residue can be cleaned with acetone and a clean white rag.
      3. If the glue is really stubborn, soak the area in acetone for several minutes and try scraping with a razor blade, followed by wiping with acetone.



      Casein, mucilage, paste and hide glue.

      Problem: The white and clear glue rarely stain. However some of the darker glues can leave a stain that can be difficult to remove.


      1. Scrape excess glue with a sharp razor blade. Be careful not to scratch the surface. 2. Clean with cold water and a mild detergent. Try using a green scouring pad.
      1. If glue is stubborn use acetone and a clean white rag.
      2. If the glue has left a stain, then poultice with diatomaceous earth and mineral spirits.



      Tannin and chlorophyll in the grass can leave a nasty green or yellow stain. Solution:

      1. Clean stained area with a clean white rag and denatured alcohol.
      2. If stain still remains poultice with diatomaceous earth an 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.

      Caution: DO NOT use ammonia, or any alkaline cleaners on grass stains – it can permanently set the stain.


      Types: Petroleum type grease like wheel bearing grease, cooking grease and vegetable oils, etc. Problem:

      Can leave a nasty dark stain that can penetrate deeply into the stone. Can be very difficult to remove. Try to remove as soon as grease is spilled.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent.
      2. Soak stained area with a commercial degreaser for several minutes. If degreaser solution dries, reapply and keeping it wet. Remove excess degreaser and rinse with clean water.
      3. If stain is still present, poultice with diatomaceous earth and commercial degreaser. 45
      1. For stubborn grease stains, poultice with diatomaceous earth and mineral spirits or commercial paint remover.



      Butter, margarine, fried foods, mayonnaise, salad dressings, gravy, etc. Problem:

      Fats and oils can leave a dark stain which can be difficult to remove. Some salad dressings and foods contain dyes which can also cause staining.


      1. Thoroughly clean stained area with cold water and a mild detergent of stone soap.
      2. Apply a commercial degreaser to the stained area and let sit for several minutes. Remove excess degreaser and rinse with clean, clear water.
      3. If stain is still present, poultice with degreaser and diatomaceous earth.
      4. For stubborn stains, poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Honey, molasses, maple and corn

      Problem: The sugar and coloring added to these syrups can cause staining.


      1. Thoroughly clean stained area with cold water and a mild detergent of stone soap. 46
      1. If stain still remains, clean with ammonia and water. Let solution sit for several minutes, then agitate and rinse with clean water.
      2. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.



      All flavors except chocolate (also see chocolate)


      Food coloring and fruits can cause staining.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent or stone soap. 2. If stain still remains poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.
      2. If the stain is very stubborn try a poultice with mineral spirits or similar solvent and diatomaceous earth.



      Ball Point pen, magic marker, carbon paper, newspaper print, etc


      Most inks penetrate deep into the stone and can be very difficult to nearly impossible to remove, depending on the age of the stain. It is very important to remove the stain as quickly as possible.


      1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white rag.
      2. Poultice the stain with a solvent such as mineral spirits or commercial paint remover and diatomaceous earth.

      Several attempts will be necessary to remove the stain. If no improvement is noticed after 5 attempts then stain is most likely permanent.



      All types and flavors, artificial and natural preserves, etc.


      Dyes and fruits can cause staining, especially grape and berry jams and jellies. Solution:

      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a good mild detergent. 2. If stain still remains poultice with a mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Kool-aid-type drinks and popsicles, etc.


      Dyes can be extremely difficult to remove, especially the red and orange colors. Solution:

      1. Clean with a solution of ammonia and water. This will help neutralize the dye.
      2. Poultice with commercial Kool-aid remover (available at janitorial supply) and diatomaceous earth.



      All colors and types


      Oil waxes and dyes can be difficult to remove.


      1. Scrape excess lipstick with a sharp razor blade. Lipstick is very concentrated; attempting to clean without scraping excess will only spread the lipstick around.
      2. Once all excess is removed, clean with acetone and a clean white rag.
      3. If stain is still present, poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Mixed drinks and white wine (for red wine, see wine; for beer, see beer) Problem:

      Alcohols can melt agglomerate-type stones. Dyes can cause staining. Solution:

      1. Agglomerate stones that are damaged can sometimes be filled with a polyester resin. Seek professional help if this is the case or replace the stone.
      2. Stains will need to be poulticed with a solvent such as mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Baby lotion, body, suntan and hair oil, etc.


      Lotions contain various oils which can cause dark staining. Can be difficult to remove if left on too long.


      1. Thoroughly clean area with water and a mild detergent.
      2. Prepare a solution of a degreaser and water. Apply solution to the stained area and let sit for several minutes. Agitate and remove excess solution and rinse with cold clear water. Repeat several times.
      3. If stain is deep, apply a poultice of degreaser and diatomaceous earth.



      Mascara, blush, eye shadow, liquid foundation, etc.

      Problem: Dyes, waxes and oils can stain stone. Many types of makeup have a high concentration of dye, which can be tricky to remove.


      1. Remove any excess makeup by blotting with a clean white rag. DO NOT wipe; this will only spread the stain.
      2. Clean the stained area with denatured alcohol and a clean white cloth. Blot; DO NOT wipe.
      3. If stain still remains, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.
      4. If stain still remains, poultice with a solvent like mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Iodine, mercurochrome and similar dyes found in medicines

      Problem: Can leave a stain that can be nearly impossible to remove. Solution:

      1. Blot any wet iodine with a clean white rag.
      2. Clean the area with denatured alcohol and a clean white rag. Be sure to blot the area. DO NOT wipe; this will only make the stain larger. Blot until you see no more dye on the white rag.
      3. If stain still remains poultice with denatured alcohol and diatomaceous earth.



      Mildew, fungus, algae and other living plant stains

      Problem: Can leave a black, green, blue, orange or white blotchy type stain on stone surfaces. Since this is a living fungus it can grow and spread at a rapid rate. Usually requires a moist environment to grow, such as showers, etc.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent.
      2. If there is any soap film on a shower wall, be sure to remove the soap film by scrapping and then wiping with a clean rag and acetone.
      3. To remove the mildew stains, spray the area with a solution of 3 parts household bleach to one part water, with several drops of dish detergent. Continue to mist the area until all the mildew stains disappear.
      4. Rinse the entire area with clean water and dry it.



      Milk, cream and other milk products


      The animal fat contained in milk can sour and leave a yellow stain and it also can smell very badly.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent.
      2. Apply a solution of 3 parts bleach to one part water. Let stand for several minutes than rinse with clean water.
      3. If stain is still present poultice with 20% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.


      Types: Mud, dirt, red clay, etc.


      Most dirt is not a big problem, however red clay can leave some nasty stains that can be difficult to remove


      1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent of stone soap and plenty of cold water to remove all surface dirt.
      2. If dirt has left any stains then poultice with household ammonia and StoneMedic SPP Stone Poultice Powder.
      3. If the stain was caused by red clay and the ammonia does not remove it, then poultice with a mixture of one part laundry detergent and 2 parts diatomaceous earth.



      All types


      Mustard contains turmeric, which is a yellow spice that causes the yellow staining. Mustard stains can be very difficult to remove, especially if the stain is old.


      1. Thoroughly clean the stained area with cold water and a mild detergent (blot only).
      2. Pour 20-50% hydrogen peroxide directly on the stain and add a few drops of ammonia. Leave until bubbling stops.
      3. If the stain is still present poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.

      CAUTION: Do not use ammonia or alkaline type cleaners on mustard stains as this may permanently stain the stone.



      Enamel or lacquer types


      Nail polishes will dry very quickly. For this reason the dyes they contains will rarely penetrate into polished stone. Rough texture stone is another problem. The nail polish will penetrate immediately causing a difficult to remove stain.


      1. Immediately blot with a clean white cloth.
      2. Apply acetone to the stain and blot with a clean white cloth. Continue to apply acetone and blot until stain disappears.
      3. If stain is old, poultice with a solvent (Mineral spirits, alcohol, etc) and diatomaceous earth.



      Automotive, cooking and lubricating, etc


      Oil can be very difficult to remove on most stone. Oils will penetrate deep into the stone and will spread out throughout the stone. Try to clean up the oil spill as soon as it happens.


      1. Blot up any excess oil with a clean white cloth. If oil has dried on the surface scrape with a sharp razor.
      2. If oil is still fresh and has penetrated into the stone, sprinkle a generous portion of StoneMedic SPP Stone Poultice Powder on the spill and let stand for 12-24 hours.
      3. Remove the dry poultice and prepare a solution of degreaser and water. Apply this solution to the spill and keep it wet for 30 minutes. Vacuum the solution up and blot the remainder with a clean white cloth.
      4. If stain is still present poultice with a solvent (commercial paint remover works well) and diatomaceous earth.



      All oil based paints and alkyd resins and solvents


      Oil based paints are the most difficult paints to remove. The oils and solvents contained in these paints will carry the dyes deep into the stone.


      1. Immediately blot any excess paint from the surface with a clean white cloth.
      2. Apply liberal amounts of mineral spirits (paint thinner) to the spill and blot. Continue to blot until no color is observed on the cloth.
      3. Apply a poultice of commercial paint remover and diatomaceous earth.



      All water based paints and polymer resins


      Very difficult to remove.


      1. If the spill is fresh, blot immediately with a clean white cloth.
      2. Clean area with water and a mild detergent.
      3. If stain is dry, scrape paint with a sharp razor blade. If scraping is difficult apply a solution of soap and water to the spill and scrape while wet.
      4. If stain has penetrated the stone, poultice with a commercial water rinseable paint remover and diatomaceous earth.



      Graphite and indelible pencil


      Pencil can be tricky to remove as the graphite may penetrate into the stone. Most commonly the graphite is only on the surface of the stone.


      1. Try using a pencil eraser to erase the graphite. This procedure will work most of the time.
      2. If graphite has penetrated the stone, poultice with denatured alcohol and diatomaceous earth.



      Oils, alcohol and fragrances


      Oils can penetrate the stone and cause a light oil spot. Alcohols can also react with certain stones and turn a brown color.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with de-natured alcohol and a clean white cloth. 2. If stain is deep, poultice with denatured alcohol and diatomaceous earth.


      Type: Body oils, salts and enzymes


      Oils from perspiration are a big problem on walls, countertops etc where hands are constantly touching the surface of the stone.


      1. Blot the area with denatured alcohol and a clean white cloth.
      2. If stain is still present, poultice with denatured alcohol and diatomaceous earth.



      Urine and vomit


      Urine and vomit contain acids which can etch polished marble. The proteins contained can also stain the stone and have a terrible odor.


      1. Try to clean up the accident as quickly as possible. Blot the area with a clean white cloth.
      2. Apply a solution of 1 part vinegar, 1 part 35% hydrogen peroxide and 6 parts water. Let the solution soak into stain for several minutes and pick up with a wet vacuum.
      3. After treatment above apply a solution of a commercial bacteria/enzyme digester (available at janitorial supply). Cover with a paper towel soaked with digester. Allow to sit overnight. This should remove the odor. It may require several applications of digester to remove the odor.



      Iron oxide

      Problem: Rust is one of the most difficult stains to remove. It can cause a reddish-brown to yellow stain that can permanently set into the stone.


      1. If the rust stain is new, try applying a solution of rust remover and water. Mix into a slurry and lightly agitate the area with a soft bristle brush. Rinse with clean water.

      Caution: Rust removers may cause etching; be prepared to re-polish the stone.

      1. If stain is old and has penetrated into the stone, poultice with rust remover and . diatomaceous earth

      Caution: Do not use clay powders; use diatomaceous earth .

      1. If #2 above does not work poultice, with hydrofluoric acid and diatomaceous earth. Caution: Never use bleach; it will only make stain worse.



      All liquid polishes including white

      Problem: Dyes in shoe polish can penetrate the stone leaving a nasty stain.


      1. If dry, scrape excess polish with a clean sharp razor. Apply a solution of Apeiron’s Stone Cleaner/Conditioner to help lubricate the blade and prevent scratching.
      2. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth.
      3. If stain still appears, poultice with a solvent (mineral spirits, etc) and diatomaceous earth.



      Smoke and soot from fireplaces and fire damage. Does not include tobacco smoke. 58

      Problem: Smoke and soot contain particles of oil and carbon which can leave a black ugly stain. Solution:

      1.Wipe excess soot with a clean, dry white cloth.

      2.Clean area thoroughly with a solution of stone soap or dishwashing soap in warm water. Use a stiff brittle brush for rough textured stone or concrete.

      1. If smoke damage is heavy clean with a solution of degreaser and warm water. 4. If smoke damage is still present, poultice with the degreaser and diatomaceous earth.


      Type: Coke, Pepsi and all other carbonated sodas


      The coloring and sugars in sodas can cause severe staining.


      1. If the spill is fresh blot with a clean white cloth.
      2. Clean the area thoroughly with a mild detergent and warm water. Flood the stained area thoroughly.
      3. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.



      All soups and stew containing meat and vegetables


      Can leave some greasy looking stains that can be difficult to remove, especially if the stain is old.


      1.Clean the area thoroughly with a solution of ammonia and water.

      1. If stained after clean-up poultice with ammonia and diatomaceous earth. 3. If the stain is present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth



      All brands of soy and Worcestershire sauces.


      Coloring and proteins in these sauces can be extremely difficult to remove. Solution:

      1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth. Be sure to blot only. 2. Poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Asphalt, roofing tar, beach tar, etc.

      Problem: Dyes in tar can cause deep staining in stone and concrete.


      1. Scrape away any excess tar with a clean dry razor blade.
      2. Clean the remaining tar with acetone and a clean white cloth.
      3. If stain still remains poultice with mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.
      4. If stain is stubborn, poultice with De-Solv-it (available at hardware stores) and diatomaceous earth.

      Caution: DO NOT use water with tar. It will harden the tar and set the stain.



      Smoke stains from cigarettes and cigars


      Nicotine can cause a light yellow stain that can be difficult to remove. Solution:

      1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent or stone soap and cold water. 2. For heavy tobacco stains clean with a degreaser and cold water. 3. If stain still remains, poultice with degreaser and diatomaceous earth.



      Canned, fresh tomatoes, tomato pastes, juice, etc.


      Acids in tomato products can etch the surface of polished marble. Can also leave a red stain in porous stones.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent or stone soap. Rinse with clear water.
      2. If stone is stained, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth. 3. If stone is etched, re-polish with polishing powder.



      Copy machine toner and similar inks


      This is one of the most difficult ink stains to remove. If the stain is allowed to sit it may become permanent.


      1. Thoroughly clean the area with acetone and a clean white cloth. Continue to clean until no ink is transferred to the cloth.
      2. If dye has penetrated the stone,poultice with commercial paint remover and diatomaceous earth.



      Green and yellow vegetables

      Problem: Will leave a green yellow stain.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent of stone soap and cold water. 62
      1. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.



      Human or animal vomit


      The acids in the stomach have a very low acidic Ph and can severely etch the surface of polished marble. Can also leave a stain depending on what was eaten.


      1. Clean area through with a mild detergent of stone soap and cold water.
      2. Clean are with a solution of household ammonia and cold water. Continue to clean until all stain is gone.
      3. If stain is still present, apply a poultice of ammonia and diatomaceous earth
      4. If odor is still present apply a solution of enzyme digester (available at janitorial supply). Keep wet for several hours. Covering with a wet paper towel will help keep enzyme solution wet.
      5. If stone is etched, re-polish as necessary. WATER RINGS/SPOTS


      Rings from drinking glasses and hard water spots from drips.


      Water will not usually stain but will leave a white ring or spot. This ring or spot is deposits of minerals from the water. If the drink contains acid (e.g., lemon in ice tea) it will etch polished marble in the shape of a ring or spot.


      1. Try buffing ring or spot with dry #000 steel wool.
      2. If ring or spot still remains, re-polish as necessary.
      3. If ring or spot is very deep, re-honing may be necessary.

      Caution: If the stone has been waxed or colored with dyes the ring may have removed the wax or dyes from the surface. To test for waxes or dyes take some acetone and clean an inconspicuous area. If the stone lightens there is a wax or dye on the stone. If this is the case you will need to re-wax or re-dye.



      Waxes, acrylics, urethane, epoxy, etc.


      Waxes can yellow and give a plastic like appearance. They will also attract dirt. Solution:

      1. If the coating is water based (e.g., acrylics), strip the stone with a commercial wax stripper. Be sure to rinse thoroughly.
      2. If the coating is solvent based (waxes, urethane, epoxy), strip with a commercial paint stripper.
      3. Once all coatings have been stripped, re-honing and re-polishing may be necessary.



      All red wines


      The tannin contained in red wine can severely stain stone.


      1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth.

      Caution: DO NOT use detergent and water; this may set the stain.

      1. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth .
      2. If stain is stubborn, try poulticing with a solvent such as mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      All solvent based stains and dyes.


      The dyes contained in these stain can be nearly impossible to remove, as they are designed to stain wood. The older the stain gets the harder it is to remove.


      1. Clean area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth. Continue to clean until no stain is visible on the cloth.
      2. Prepare a poultice with commercial paint remover and diatomaceous earth. It may take several attempts to pull these difficult stains out.


      Type: General yellowing across the surface of most stones, especially white marbles.


      There are many causes for yellowing of stone. UV light can cause yellowing over time. Iron contained naturally in stone can oxidize and cause yellowing. Inexpensive coatings can cause yellowing. Mastic used to set stone can yellow.


      1. If the yellowing is caused by iron contained naturally in the stone or if the stone is aging, you will likely never get the yellowing out.
      2. If the yellowing is caused by waxes or coating, strip them off according to stripping directions (see waxes).

      Yellowing of white marble, particularly the carra types, is very common and cannot be reversed at this time.


      Type: A dry white powder on the surface of the stone. True efflorescence is loose and will wipe off easily.

      Problem: Most conditions that cause efflorescence are water related. Efflorescence will continue to be a problem unless the moisture is eliminated.


      1. DO NOT use any water, cleaners etc in an attempt to remove effloresce. This will only cause more efflorescence.
      2. Remove the efflorescence with a dry white cloth or buff using 0000# steel wool. Wait to see if efflorescence returns. If it does, repeat dry buffing.
      3. If the efflorescence condition is indoors it may help to install de-humidifiers or turn the air conditioner down to about 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

      It can take several months for the stone to dry and completely eliminate the problem. 66



      Copper piping, sculptures, etc.


      Copper can cause a green stain that can sometimes penetrate deep into stone if allowed to age.


      1. Remove any excess crust by scraping with a sharp razor blade. If the surface is polished wet the surface with soap and water to prevent scratching the stone.
      2. Prepare a solution of one part ammonium and 3 parts warm water. Apply this solution to the surface and agitate with a soft bristle brush. Rinse with clean water.
      3. If stain is still present, poultice with ammonium chloride and StoneMedic SPP Stone Poultice Powder.



      All aluminum, usually from windows, awnings, etc.


      Can leave a crusty, whitish residue.


      1. On polished surfaces, scrape any crusty residue from the surface with a sharp razor blade. On textured surfaces use a hard brush.
      2. On textured surfaces, mix one part hydrochloric acid in 20 parts water, apply solution and agitate with a soft nylon brush.
      3. On polished surfaces, dilute one part hydrochloric acid in 40 parts water, apply solution and agitate with a soft nylon brush. Re-hone and re-polish the surface to return the luster.

      Caution: Be extremely careful with hydrochloric acids near marbles; they will severely etch the surface.



      Crystallization is a process used to polish marble. Includes all brands Problem:

      If this process is overused in can build up and turn yellow on light colored stones. It also may give the stone a plastic-like look.


      1. Crystallization can be stripped chemically using a solution of oxalic acid and water. Start by using one cup of oxalic acid to one gallon of water. Apply this solution to the stone and agitate with a hog hair pad.
      2. Once coating is removed chemically, re-honing and re-polishing will be necessary.
      3. An alterative method to chemical stripping is to simply diamond-grind the crystallized cap off, then re-hone and re-polish.



      Concrete, thin set, mud sets, grout films and other concrete based residues. Problem:

      Can leave a film on surface of stone that can be hard to remove. Concrete will very rarely stain unless it is colored.


      1. If the film is light, clean the surface of the stone with a heavy duty stone cleaner and water.
      2. If film is stubborn, clean the surface with a solution of one part hydrochloric acid to 20 parts water on textured stone and one part hydrochloric acid to 40 parts water on polished stone. Agitate until mortar is removed.

      3.Re-hone and re-polish marble surfaces.

      Caution: Hydrochloric acid can severely etch polished marble, use extreme caution.



      All types of tire marks created by cars, trucks, carts, etc.


      Can leave a rubber track on surface. Tire marks will rarely but they can be difficult to remove on porous surfaces like concrete, brick and rough stone.


      1. Clean thoroughly with a degreaser and warm water. Scrub with stiff bristle brush.
      2. If marks are stubborn, clean with a solvent such as mineral spirits. Use a stiff bristle brush.



      All types of streaking, appearing as a cloudy uneven pattern on the surface. Problem: Streaking can be caused from the following:

      – Dirty mops used to mop floor.

      – Improper application of waxes or coatings.

      – Improper cleaners.

      – Using too much cleaner.


      1. Determine what is causing the streaking and eliminate the cause.
      2. If streaking is caused by wax build-up, strip the surface with a commercial wax stripper.
      3. If streaking is caused by using too much cleaner, dirty mop or improper cleaner, re-mop the floor with stone soap and buff with a white nylon pad.



      Burns from alkaline strippers, ammonia and heavy duty stone cleaners Problem: Alkaline burns are caused by salts contained in cleaners that are deposited below the surface of the stone. The etch marks appear similar to an acid etch mark.


      1. Attempt to remove burns with a mild acid. If the stone is a polished marble, do not use acid.
      2. If dealing with a polished marble, re-hone and re-polish the burn marks. 3. If the burns appear light, try re-polishing only.



      Stun marks caused by heavy objects dropped on a marble floor, also high heel marks Problem:

      Stun marks are very common on some marbles. They are usually caused by walking across the floor with high heels, and they leave a white spot on the marble. Stun marks can be telegraphed to the bottom of the stone. They are caused by the individual crystals in the stone exploding.


      Try grinding, honing and polishing the floor. This may eliminate some light stuns but many times they cannot be removed.



      Circular pattern swirls.

      Problem: Swirls marks appear as circular patterns on the surface of the stone. This is usually caused by a floor machine using abrasive pads like steel wool or pads that have trapped sand and grit under them.


      1. Light swirls can be removed by re-polishing. Heavy swirls will require re-honing and re-polishing.

      Caution: When using any type of rotating machine (floor buffer, automatic scrubber, hand machine, etc.) never hold the machine stationary while operating. Keep it moving. Keeping machine stationary may cause severe swirling.



      Shoe and clothing leather


      Leather contains oils and dyes which can penetrate into stone and cause staining. Solution:

      1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth.
      2. If stain is deep, poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Carpet padding made of jute.


      Carpets that have jute backing can leave a difficult to remove brown to yellow stain on stone surfaces. The jute is made of a burlap type material. Jute backing can cause some very deep stains that can penetrate throughout the stone.


      1. Scrape any excess carpet padding from the surface.
      2. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent and clean cold water. 3. Poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and diatomaceous earth.



      Brown paper bags and construction paper


      It is very common for contractors to cover a new stone floor with brown construction paper. If this paper gets wet or slightly wet it will bleed into to stone leaving an ugly brown stain.


      1. Clean area with acetone and a clean white cloth.
      2. Poultice area with a solvent such as mineral Spirits and diatomaceous earth.



      Silicon caulking used for grouting and anchoring stone


      This can be a serious problem when caulking is used to help hold anchors in place on stone wall panels. The silicone will start to bleed through the stone in the area were the anchors are. It may take several months before the silicon becomes visible.


      The only known technique that will remove this silicon staining is the following:

      Prepare a poultice with commercial paint remover and diatomaceous earth. May require a dozen applications.

      If the silicon has not completely cured, the staining may return again.



      Soap film on shower walls and vanity tops


      Soap from showers can build up on shower walls leaving a film that will not wash off with regular cleaning.


      1. If soap film is thick, scrape with a razor blade. Wet the surface to avoid scratching. 2. Once all heavy build-up is removed, clean with acetone and a green scrub pad.
      2. There are also commercial soap film removers on the market which work well, but make sure that they do not contain acids which can etch polished marble.

      Several poultices may need to be applied to completely remove all staining. 


      Once the stain is identified, the following steps can be followed:

      1. Identify the stain.
      2. Clean the stained area to remove excess from the surface.
      3. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water, isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical. the powder and the chemical of choice into a thick paste with the consistency of peanut butter. Wet it enough so that it does not run. If a paper poultice is to be used, soak the paper in the chemical. Lift the paper out of the chemical until it stops dripping.
      4. Apply the poultice to the stain, being careful not to spill any on the un-stained areas. Apply poultice approximately one-quarter-inch thick, overlapping the stain area by approximately one inch (2-½ centimeters).
      5. Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works very well). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.
      6. After 24 to 48 hours, remove the plastic.
      7. Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take five applications or more for difficult stains.
      8. Some chemicals may etch or burn the marble surface. If this occurs, apply a polishing powder and buff to restore the shine.


    The following procedure is to be used only if you have no indication of the stain type. Be sure to test this procedure before applying it to the entire area.

    1. Remove excess stain material from the surface by scraping with a very sharp razor blade.
    2. Blot the stain with acetone and a clean white cloth. If the staining material transfers to the white cloth, continue blotting until no additional stain is transferred. Proceed to step # 6. If no stain is transferred to the white cloth proceed to step #3.
    3. Clean the area thoroughly with cool water and stone soap or neutral cleaner. Use a white cloth to remove excess solution. If stain is transferred to the white cloth, proceed to Step #7. If stain is not transferred proceed to Step #4.
    4. Blot the area with 20% hydrogen peroxide and a clean white cloth. If the stain material transfers to the white cloth, continue blotting until no stain is transferred. Proceed to Step # 8. If no stain is transferred proceed to step # 5.
    5. Clean the area thoroughly with an iron-removing cleaner. Agitate with a soft brush or cloth and remove excess with a white cloth. Use caution; most iron-removing chemicals contain acids and may etch the stone. If stain is lightened, proceed to step # 9. If stain is not changed by this method proceed to step #10.
    6. Apply a poultice using Diatomaceous earth and either mineral spirits or commercial paint remover. Several poultices may be needed. Use only one solvent type. Do not mix solvents. Continue to poultice until stain is removed. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts proceed to step #10.
    7. Apply a poultice of diatomaceous earth and an alkaline stone cleaner or heavy duty neutral cleaner. Several poultices may need to be applied. Continue to poultice until stain is removed. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts proceed to step #10.
    8. Apply a poultice of diatomaceous earth and 20% hydrogen peroxide. Do not use clay or fuller earth powders that contain hydrogen peroxide. If stain is difficult to remove, re-poultice using 50% hydrogen peroxide. Several poultices may need to be applied. Continue poulticing until stain is removed. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts, proceed to step #10.
    9. Apply a poultice with diatomaceous earth and an iron-removing chemical. Continue poulticing until stain is completely removed. Re-honing and/or re-polishing may be necessary on marble. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts proceed to step # 10.
    10. If stain is not removed, it is likely that it has become permanently set or it is part of the stone. Replacing the stone or using a rug to cover the stain may be the only options.


    A poultice is an absorbent material applied to a surface to draw out a stain. It can be a powder, paper or a gel. The most common poultices in use today are powders. A number of powders are very absorbent and are ideal for stain removal. Some typical powders used in poultices are listed below:

    • Clays and fullers earth
    • Talc
    • Chalk (whiting)
    • Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate)
    • Diatomaceous earth
    • Methyl cellulose
    • Flour

    Clays and diatomaceous earth are usually the best. Do not use whiting or clays containing iron. When using acidic chemicals the acids will react with the iron and may cause yellowing of certain stone surfaces. It is best to purchase poultice powder materials from a reputable supplier of products for this purpose.

    Paper poultices can be quite effective on mild stains. They are easier to apply than powder poultices and are also easier to remove. Some typical paper poultices listed below:

    • Cotton balls
    • Paper towels
    • Gauze pads

    Gel poultices are usually thick chemical gels that are designed to be applied to a stain with the use of powders or papers. They work effectively with certain stains. When purchasing poultice materials, ask if they contain stain removing chemicals or if they need chemicals added. Some powder and gel poultices contain chemicals, and all you need to do is add water. Never mix additional chemicals with a poultice that contains its own chemical formulation.

Daily stone care maintenance by Renue System

    1. Chemical- Renue Stone Soap made specifically for the care of marble floors. DO NOT USE high alkaline, acidic or ammoniated abrasive cleaners. Follow the label instructions.
    2. Mop floors with a large cotton mop head in a figure eight pattern. Do approximately 60 square feet (6
      1. Dust mop all floors using microfiber dust mop.

        (You can distribute this to your customers after your restoration)

        The easiest and least expensive way to maintain a marble floor is through daily housekeeping. First, catch dirt, water and ice-melting salts at the door by placing large mats with waterproof backings at all entrances (salt dissolves and pits marble). Second, keep the floor clean of superficial dirt by using a minimum amount of warm water and a neutral floor cleaner, and a cotton string mop. Frequent mopping will help prevent soil from penetrating the surface. Whenever possible, quickly blot spills, especially acid based, oil and grease, to minimize their absorption into the stone.

      2. Set out Wet Floor Signs. Mop floors using the following items and sequence: Dual container mop bucket. Fill with warm water. square meters) and then change the water in the bucket.

    1. Dry mop that same section of floor with another large cotton mop head. This is done to avoid streaking.

    Replace this mop when it no longer dries the floor.

    1. Speed dry the floors using an air mover.

    Always clean up any spills promptly. The faster the response time to spills the less likely for any slip and fall accidents or damage to the marble.

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